thompsondockside.com

Just a point of information, when using Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant. Heed the warning labels! I have used this product all along in my restoration of my 62 Sea Lancer. It struck me as having a tremendous solvent smell. Even though I always use a charcoal filter mask when applying this, I dont think that in itself is enough. I recently coated the inside of my hull by brushing it on liberally. Before I was 1/2 done I was punch drunk. I had to take a half hour breather outside to get my senses back in order so that I might finish it which I did. The next morning I asked my son if he had a window fan I could use to aid in applying the varnish to ventilate the odor. He asked why and I told him to take a whiff of the hull to which he did and the solvents were overwhelming. I believe the hull acted like a large bowl which prevented the heavier solvents from dispersing. Thus I had unknowingly taken a solvent bath which I suspect I absorbed right through my body. Hind sight tells me I should have had a fan blowing the vapors out of the hull. That evening I broke out with hives which have necessitated taking Benadryl each evening in order to sleep. Even though it has been a couple of weeks I still need to use a tablet of allergy medication to get through the night. It is gradually getting better. Hope I can spare someone else from making this mistake. Scratch Scratch....Scratch Rod Syverson

Yikes. Bummer. Sorry to hear about the problems.

I use CPES but have ALWAYS had the shop overhead door open while doing so or have pushed the boat and components outside. I wear a face resporator.

Maybe one of those tyvec suits is a good idea to protect ones skin.

Andreas

Rod,

You were very lucky. That situation could have been fatal.

In OSHA terms, I think the inside of the boat hull qualifies as a "confined space." If you work in a confined space in industry several precautions are mandated. They may include ventilation, air quality monitoring, personnel monitoring, and breathing apparatus (air supply to a face mask).

I don't think there is a safe way to apply CPES to the inside of a hull unless you turn your boat on it's side. That would prevent the vapors from filling the hull as you apply the CPES, they would pour out the bottom.

If you can't do that, I'd suggest hooking some dryer vent to at least two small computer fans to 1) push the vapors out of the hull, and 2) push fresh air in (I got the idea here). Also, have someone keep an eye on you while you are working.

Jim

I am not sure if all charcoal masks are sufficient for CPES... I asked the person at an auto body paint shop, and bought what they used... This was a 3M dual cartridge organic vapor mask... 7192 with P95 cartridges... I believe this was about $15.

I also kept my garage door open, and I think I had a small fan sitting in the boat as well.

John Hart

John:

I own three body shops, and am a x-painter. The masks are a very good thing to wear, but they do not protect against fumes. The best thing would be is to wear the mask, but more importantly vent the area as best as possible. Leave doors open to the garage, use fans, so on.

I met Steve Smith of Smith's CPES over the weekend at the Boating History Symposium in Cincinnati. Nice guy!

Andreas

I recently purchased a 1961 Thompson 17' boat with a 1962, 75hp Evinrude with Selectric shift on a Gator trailor. Unbelievably all the original manuals are there. From the pictures I have seen on the net and your site, my boat would fit into one of those "i can't believe it, you stole it" categories & after looking it over completely, inspecting underneath, even under the main deck, its almost in pristine condition. I have sanded the boat down to bare wood with the exception of the bottom paint / boot line. I read about the CPES and am wondering where I can purchase this? I am also into any info you can provide on the paint scheme. The side above the lapstake (mohagany) had aproximately the first 6 feet painted white to about where the windshield is. I want to varnish this entire strip so there is mahogany the entire length. Would this be OK or should I keep it white? I also am looking for where to get paints. I need the white and I found the "Copper" colored bottom paint is a special paint that reacts once its in the water to prevent sea life growth, but would love to get it in "Red" as some boats I have I have seen on line with it would make this baby "POP". If red is available, can I paint over the copper?

I do know it is a 1961 Thompson made out of Cortland New York. I left the numbers in my other garage but think the numbers are 13962? Same numbers are burnished in the wood underneath the brass plate on transom. I can confirm these later but believe it is one of the last boats made before Thomson of Cortland new York was sold to the Chriscraft factory. It also has The Mahogany bench seat with a swing through door, with attached storage compartments on the back of the seats. I am not sure if these were add on or came factory but there are vinyl snap on seat cushions, three sections but cover the whole bench seat and backrest and "not a tear in them". There are also emblems on the storage compartments which look kinda like maybe a "Mariners" symbol to me. All the manuals and info I have lead me to believe everything was origanaly purchased as a package. The 17' gator trailor looks as though it was made for the Thompson. I am trying to trace the numbers to see if it was sold in conjuction any Thompson's, so any info you can give would leave me endebted to you.

CPES can be obtained directly from the manufacturer, Smith and Company in the Oakland, CA area; www.classicboatconnection.com phone 507-344-8024; www.rotdoctor.com; and many other sources.

Andreas