thompsondockside.com

Hello, I am located in Southwest Florida and have recently purchased a great restoration project. The boat has literally been sitting in garages for at least 30 or more years. After spending a few months disassembling and cleaning it I am pretty impressed with the condition. The engine it came with is a 1960 75 hp Evinrude that literally had no paint removed from it's skeg, that's how little use it's had. After a water pump, a few seals and new fuel hoses, it started right up.

I am now in the process of hull prep and have run into a problem that I would like to get some feedback on. Against some very good advice I decided to caulk the hull seams with a bead of 3M 5200 Fast Cure today. Everything was going real well until about 1/2 hour after I finished one side of the hull, the 5200 started bubbling. I don't know why and am not really sure how to fix. Im hoping after it cures thoroughly I can sand it smooth. Im thinking the fast cure version of 5200 in the Florida heat might have started to cure too fast. Anybody have ideas?

PS I tried to upload a photo but it wouldn't upload....

Thank you!

hello. maybe it's too late, BUT in the book REPAIRS by walter j. simmons he writes about what you have tried to do. I know because I did the same thing (sans the quick dry 5200). his method allows the strakes to remain very sharp - very crisp. no one would ever know that you had applied the caulk - if that's important to you. nevertheless, I found his book very helpful. one more thing. using his method, you may be able to remove what you've done and start over. good luck...

Thank you Andre, I will definitely check the book out.

What model Thompson do you have? I am looking for specific info for my 63 Sea Lancer.

sorry, I won't be able to help you. I have a 1957 Thompson sea coaster deluxe (model 477). I'm sure you'll eventually find what you're looking for here. this site is very helpful - once everyone returns for the summer from florida, Arizona, etc. having said that, there is another site I use quite often. dan danenberg has a site that deals a lot with chris craft type boats, BUT others are covered too. also, if you are new to wooden boats, I would also suggest the book that he has. once again, good luck on your journey...

My boat is a "1963 Thompson by Chris Craft 17' Luxury Skiff" built in New York.

I think I resolved the caulk issue. The 5200 fast cure is just no good. I couldn't get a real answer from 3M either, after sending them photos and serial numbers from the tubes I used. I have since tried the regular 5200 and even though it takes much longer to cure, no bubbles. I'm sanding off the bubbles and recoating with the regular 5200 and moving on. I got the Walter J Simmons book, also actually spoke with him, and he is in agreement with the caulking of the laps. Just don't ever try to get it back off...

Can anyone help me with photo posting? I get a red warning - "could not upload attachment"

Thanks

Robert

Here are the bubbles...




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A photo of the boat the way i found it and after cleaning it out.
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Can't help you with the bubbles, but it looks like you got a good one. I didn't notice any dark spots where water was left standing, except a little towards the bow. Make sure you check along the transom where it meets the hull. With the extra board they put on the outside on the New York boats, it could be hiding something. You should get years of enjoyment from that one. In ten years of use, I have yet to use my '59 Peshtigo Sea Lancer without getting comments of how nice it looks. All of the work will be worthwhile the first time you put it in the water.
Bill

Bill thanks for commenting. This boat kind of found me. I bought it at a garage sale about a mile from my house where it had been stored for over 20 years. The guy I bought it from towed it down from upstate New York where he found it in stored in a commercial garage. I dont think it has spent much time, if any, in the water. The transom seems perfect. There is a dark area in the bow but the wood seems solid both inside and outside. I solved the bubble issue by sanding the 5200 down and recoating over the top with more 5200 slow cure. Its not perfect, but it wont leak! (I hope). My next step is another coat of CPES and then Kirby primer. I'll post progress photos as I go.

Hey Robert,
We own very much the same boat, built by the Cortand New York Thomspon company (yours has all the tale tale Cortland features) What year is it? And do you have the original seats by chance? I have never been able to get a picture of the seats that would (could) have come with my boat. Mine had the flip seat option. I still have the passenger front seat, but not the original driver's seat.

Pete

I have the original seats, the driver side is a single fold down and the passenger side is back to back that extends flat.
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Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. Those look in great shape! Not what came in mine as near as I can tell.
Looking forward to more pictures of your progress!!

Pete

Update on progress with my Thompson, after getting some great advice on line and reading, this is how I proceeded. After sanding the 5200 as best we could, we gave the hull 3 coats of Pettit Tie coat primer, then after sanding we went with two coats of Kirby gloss red on the bottom.




Then Kirby Primer on the sides followed by 3 coats of Kirby Fighting Lady Yellow. (2 coats didn't cover)



For some reason the boat had 2 bow eyes, which came in handy for flipping the boat, see the brackets we made. A forklift on each end and we were able to flip the boat easily. Note the restored Holsclaw trailer in the last photo.



Now the fun begins!!

sweet

should the spray rail have been stained and varnished lieu painted?

Andreas