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I replied to the post on "Glue" but thought it best to start a new post since I was really asking a question and not giving a reply.
I was reading the post on "glue" as I am starting my rebuild of part of the outer stem on my '62 T&T Breakers. This is a 3 piece (3/8" thick ea.) white oak lamination secured to the inner stem with 2 1/4" #12 brass screws @4" cc.+/-.
First launch each year revealed a few cups of water leak near where the outer stem joined the outer keel (this removed and resealed a few years ago). The leak would disappear as the season progressed. Anyway, this leak bugged me, frankly. I could tell the laminations in the bottom were loose as they would show signs of individual movement/shifting during the season which I suspected were caused by moisture in between failed lamination adhesive.
This is exactly what has happened. However, adhesive failure has occurred in just the lower/aft 3.5'. I definitely do not want to remove the entire outer stem as I believe it is unnecessary and would create much more work. I have remove all screws just below the waterline and probed the laminations for failed adhesive and the outer stem seems sound about 3" below the waterline and up/forward.
Here's my plan;
1. Sand and scrape away all the dead adhesive on hull and between laminations getting all I can especially as the gap becomes more of a crack.
2. CPES all raw wood
3. 3M5200 between laminations.(based on Andrea's recommendation in this post)
4. Boat Life caulk between outer stem and hull. ( Here I am switching to caulk so the outer stem could removed again. However, I believe the original lamination adhesive was used at this joint too.)
5. New silicone bronze screws and end bolt.
(Steps 3.4.5 will happen at one frantic time)
Any thoughts?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/141079213 ... res/822f6i

Portside,

Sounds like a good workable plan to me.
Good Luck,

Phill

Thanks, Phil.
Today, did the job as stated and all went well. One messy job.
One question I have.
The cure time on both these adhesives is about a week. I have the screws pretty snug but I could crank them tighter.

Should I do that now or wait until the caulk and adhesive is cure?

Portside,

I recommend waiting until adhesive has cured then tighten the screws. Also it might take longer then a week for the boat life to cure before it can be sanded and painted. Give it time for a good cure.

Good Luck,

Phill

Thanks Phil, makes sense to me too. My thought on all tight now was that the screw shanks would not be subject to a broken seal which could result tightening later. Probably over-thinking this issue.
I do remember to the long cure time on Boat Life Caulk now that you mentioned it. I'll likely wait two weeks before sanding and finishing.