winterizing a 1962 75ho johnson super sea-horse

59FLPAN · Post by **59FLPAN** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:38 pm

hi all, had a question about winterizing my 1962 75hp johnson super sea-horse that is mounted on my 1961 19ft thompson offshore boat, i want to be able to use my winterizing kit that i bought at west marine a few years ago, very simple plastic tank that holds about 5 gallons of antifreeze, are there any tricks to use this type of tank for this engine? i am told to use a barrell but that would be to much antifreeze. really want to simplify this procedure, what else should i be concerned with on making sure nothing is damaged while in winterize mode?

thanks much
jeff
1961 19ft cortland built offshore
1962 75hp johnson super sea-horse

LancerBoy · Post by **LancerBoy** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:32 pm

I have never used anti-freeze in an outboard motor winterization. Just drain any and all water. Change the lower unit gear lube. If it is mily, that indicates water has been mixing with the gear lube and that a leak is present.

Fog the motor thru the spark plug holes. Fogging stuff comes in a spray can like WD40.

Andreas

59FLPAN · Post by **59FLPAN** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:44 pm

thanks andreas, i have winterized with antifreeze before on a newer outboard, just want to make sure there are no pockets of water trapped in the cooling system, can i run this older johnson with a garden hose and earmuffs at the gearcase instead of using a barrell full of water?

jeff

John Hart · Post by **John Hart** » Tue Aug 09, 2011 4:40 pm

The muff type water jacket adapters will not fit your engine... I have a Johnson SS Horse.. 1961 75hp... I have a Tempo Motor Flush... it was about $25 I think. It is Part number 380010 Model 916 TFC.

It is a metal piece with a bump (like a kid's bandit mask)... the bump fits the snout on the underside of the cavitation plate... there is a foam piece that helps seal, and brackets/wing nuts to hold everything tight.

Hook the hose to the fitting, turn on the water and you are set... mine works great.

Frankly, I run such a high ratio of gas/oil (24/1), I decided I may not even need to fog the engine at the end of the season.... I just unplug the hose and run the engine as long as I can... starting it several times.. I have done that on my other 15 Hp outboard for years.

A few times on the 75Hp I fogged directly into the carbs at the very end.

59FLPAN · Post by **59FLPAN** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:40 am

thank you much john for this info, i will look into this on amazon, i will let you know how i made out.

thanks again
have a great day
jeff
1961 19ft cortland built offshore
1962 75hp johnson super sea-horse

Torchie · Post by **Torchie** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:27 pm

I agree with Andreas in regards to the fogging. My Brother in law runs a brand new Evinrude with oil injection and one of the features on it is an automatic engine fogger when you use the winterization setting. Chances of an engine seizing over the coarse of a winter are slim but fogging the engine coats the clyinder and stops corosion from starting on the cylinder walls. I would always fog my cars when I was storing them for any length of time.. Let the engine run at idle and spray the fogger into the carb until the engine died out. That way every thing internally was coated. In the spring I would pull the plugs, clean them up if necessary, fresh gas and start the engine.
Karl.

59FLPAN · Post by **59FLPAN** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 1:15 am

tried to find the tempo flushing kit model# 916tfc, appears to be discontinued, any ideas where to buy one?

thanks much,
jeff

JoeCB · Post by **JoeCB** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 1:06 pm

What John said !! ... I don't fog my 1961 75 hp Evinrude either HOWEVER the boat and motor are always stored in a dry garage (un heated). If you are storing out in the weather, under a shed, canopy or tarp I would definatly fog. Be sure to drain and refresh the gear oil.
ya' I think that the Tempro unit is no longer in production, suggest keep looking on flea-bay , older marinas or post a wanted ad at aomci.org Like John said this thing looks like a Mardis Gras mask on a stick.

Oh' one thing that I don't do is RUN the motor out of gas. Just shut it down nornally and drain the carb and fuel bowl. Running a 2 cycle engine out of gas is also running it out of lubricating oil.

Joe B

59FLPAN · Post by **59FLPAN** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 5:51 pm

thanks joe, i will check ebay again.

jeff

john · Post by **john** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:16 am

Here's what I do with my 1960 Evinrude collection, I own the complete 1960 model year, all 8 engines, 3 to 75 Hp

I mix up a tank of fresh gas with 12 to 1 oil and gas stabiliser, run the engine for about 10 min, then choke out the engine with floging spray oil. Manually drain float bowl and fuel pump, then discount all fuel lines and blow out with compressed air. Then I remove spark plugs and spray fogging oil in each cyclinder.

This should be good for several years of storage, just about forever.

Drain and refill gearcase.

Never have run in anifreeze, but not a bad idea.

In our 90+ dregree weather and near 100% hunmidity, worry more about rust than I do freezing, but it does freeze here.

I only pull my every day boats out of the water for storms, there is no winter here. This year not even storms, lake is almost 6 foot low. Record low lake leval, going back to 1971!

59FLPAN · Post by **59FLPAN** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:45 pm

thanks john for your input, up here in maine is a mix of everything from humidity to freezing rain, ice,snow, i'd feel much better knowing there was anti freeze in her.

thanks again for your advise
jeff

John Hart · Post by **John Hart** » Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:05 am

Joe.. what gear lube do you use in your 1961 75Hp....?

the Owners Manual says to use OMC Type B.. I think the Service manual says to use Type C... and what I have in there now, the Dealer said was the right one... it is Johnson/Evinrude Hi Vis......

I am curious as to what product you think is there today that most closely matches the original requirements.... OR what is even a better product available today for our old engines...

John.

JoeCB · Post by **JoeCB** » Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:33 am

John, I just use conventional GL-4 80 / 90 W hypoid gear oil in all my outboards that have standard mechanical gear shift. I have always done this and have never had a problem. Now I know that you MUST use the proper recommended OEM lube in the electric or hydraulic shift motors. One other thing, I don't use the GL-5 grade oil because I have heard that that grade has additives that are not friendly to brass or bronze parts.
Joe

John Hart · Post by **John Hart** » Wed Aug 24, 2011 6:10 am

Thanks Joe... yep, I noticed the mandate in the service manual about electric shift oil... mine is mechanical shift....