Replacing transom bolts
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 6:16 am
I am interested in getting advice/comments regarding the brass carriage bolts on the transom of my Seacoaster.. 1960.
I was thinking the other day, that maybe I should replace them. I never did that when I redid the boat in 2004-5. .. They are 50 years old... And I have no idea whether they will fail.
Here are some thoughts... Please feel free to respond to any or all of these.
1) Is this more trouble than it is worth? I have banged my way across Green Bay... Got some pounding on other lakes and rivers the past few years, and haven't had any problems. Maybe I should leave well enough alone. I would hate to chip out a chunk of CPES'd & varnished mahogany when I removed one... If I try to unscrew the nut, maybe it will not break loose, and just spin the head.. I guess I could grip the threads sticking out with a vice grip and try again.... Same goes for installing new bolts... Maybe they won't tighten right....
2) The outboard carriage bolt heads are pretty flush with the back of the transom... The next ones in had been drawn in a little. They have been that way since I have owned the boat. I am tempted to use a washer if I replace these, to avoid sucking the head in again. However, I assume the bolts have a square hump that seats in the wood, and a washer would probably not be feasible. ... And it would show a little, and therefore not look original.
3) I figure I would just back off the nuts, and gently tap the old bolts out... I can't turn them, because the head is imbedded ... I would probably score around the head with an exacto knife to break any varnish/CPES bond... Any thoughts on other things to do.... Heat the bolt with something.. Hair dryer... It may snap anyway and have to be punched out with a smaller bolt.
4) I like the looks of brass.... Rather than silicon bronze... What have some of you used?
5) I would lift under the motor skeg to take some weight off, and then just remove and replace one bolt at a time... Out and in and be done. At first thought it seemed like a no brainer easy replacement, and then I would know I had new non-brittle bolts.
If anyone has any comments that could help, please feel free to offer them up.
Thanks.
John.
I was thinking the other day, that maybe I should replace them. I never did that when I redid the boat in 2004-5. .. They are 50 years old... And I have no idea whether they will fail.
Here are some thoughts... Please feel free to respond to any or all of these.
1) Is this more trouble than it is worth? I have banged my way across Green Bay... Got some pounding on other lakes and rivers the past few years, and haven't had any problems. Maybe I should leave well enough alone. I would hate to chip out a chunk of CPES'd & varnished mahogany when I removed one... If I try to unscrew the nut, maybe it will not break loose, and just spin the head.. I guess I could grip the threads sticking out with a vice grip and try again.... Same goes for installing new bolts... Maybe they won't tighten right....
2) The outboard carriage bolt heads are pretty flush with the back of the transom... The next ones in had been drawn in a little. They have been that way since I have owned the boat. I am tempted to use a washer if I replace these, to avoid sucking the head in again. However, I assume the bolts have a square hump that seats in the wood, and a washer would probably not be feasible. ... And it would show a little, and therefore not look original.
3) I figure I would just back off the nuts, and gently tap the old bolts out... I can't turn them, because the head is imbedded ... I would probably score around the head with an exacto knife to break any varnish/CPES bond... Any thoughts on other things to do.... Heat the bolt with something.. Hair dryer... It may snap anyway and have to be punched out with a smaller bolt.
4) I like the looks of brass.... Rather than silicon bronze... What have some of you used?
5) I would lift under the motor skeg to take some weight off, and then just remove and replace one bolt at a time... Out and in and be done. At first thought it seemed like a no brainer easy replacement, and then I would know I had new non-brittle bolts.
If anyone has any comments that could help, please feel free to offer them up.
Thanks.
John.