Take off outside keel??

JALL · Post by **JALL** » Mon May 09, 2011 5:29 pm

With the boat held up by the bow eye and the two eyes on the transom can I remove the outer keel by taking out the carriage bolts from inside and then take the screws out from outside. Then drop the outer keel. Can this be done without bracing the inside from side to side? Thank You

Portside · Post by **Portside** » Mon May 09, 2011 6:08 pm

Just removed my outer keel on '62 T&T Breakers last Friday from underneath. Boat was supported at transom/sister keels and just forward of the outer keel. Used a creeper & face shield, good, large screwdriver and slowly removed all screws. Keel came off perfect with a little coaxing.
My only concern from your description is the tendency for swinging in the ropes. Also, I would never get under the boat without another safety stand in event of a collapse.
So, yes it can be done.

LancerBoy · Post by **LancerBoy** » Tue May 10, 2011 6:38 am

Sounds precarious.

Get some blocking under the boat at at least three places. Having her supported by transom eyes and bow eye (do you have a bow lifting ring?) as a back up is fine.

If you hang the boat off the eyes and/or lifting ring, make certain they are properly connected, are sound in the metal and wood, etc... I have a boat that is so rotten I would not in a million years lift with the transom eyes. They'd rip right out if I did.

You do not need to brace the hull to remove the outer keel.

Andreas

JALL · Post by **JALL** » Wed May 11, 2011 3:12 pm

I have 9 bolts holding the outer keel on. In between each bolt there are about 2 screws going from the bottom up into the outer keel and then into the keelson. Can anyone tell me if these screws are factory installed? They seem to be different sizes. I'm thinking they put there by the owner after years of use. THANK YOU

Torchie · Post by **Torchie** » Wed May 11, 2011 7:59 pm

When I removed my keel there were 9 bolts as well plus 2 screws between each bolt. The screws were different lengths depending on where they were in the keel. Keel tapers down towards the stern of the boat so the screws need to be shorter. I believe they were all the same thickness though. #8's or 10's. These screws were factory installed.
Karl.

JALL · Post by **JALL** » Fri May 13, 2011 7:10 am

I plan to use the old keel and put it back on the boat. Should I use the same holes and the same size screws. Will I need to use a caulk or sealer on the screws when I put them back in the same holes? THANKS for any help!

LancerBoy · Post by **LancerBoy** » Fri May 13, 2011 9:12 am

Use the same length screw, but go one size larger in diameter if you are using the old holes. If the existing are number 8 go to number 10, etc...

Or plug the old holes and use new ones.

Definately put caulk in screw/bolt holes before inserting the fastener into the wood. I insert the fastener end into the tube of caulk.

Andreas

JALL · Post by **JALL** » Sat May 14, 2011 12:16 pm

Should I also caulk the keel along with the seam? Should it ooze out between the keel and bottom of the boat when keel is tightened down?
THANKS FOR ANY HELP

LancerBoy · Post by **LancerBoy** » Sat May 14, 2011 1:12 pm

Yes, caulk the seam between garboard planks and back butter the keel. When it ooozes out during tightening, run your finger along the joint and make a nice fillet.

Andreas

JALL · Post by **JALL** » Sat May 14, 2011 1:37 pm

Thanks Andreas! Would BoatLife Life Caulk be a good choice for this job?
AND HOW MUCH CAULK DOES IT TAKE TO DO A KEEL ON A 16' BOAT?

Torchie · Post by **Torchie** » Sun May 15, 2011 12:03 pm

Boat Life is an excellent choice. Remains pliable and takes paint well. Not an adhesive,so when you have to recaulk the keel it will come off.
I would think that for a 16' one tube should do it.
Karl.