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I pulled the cheek pieces from the keelson this morning and was surprised with what I found. My damage expectations were met, all three pieces of the keelson are truly rotten, one cheek came out in pieces. Fortunately, I have the other for a template. However, the construction detail was interesting. None of the exposed Ribs/frames were cut at an angle as described in drawings I've seen here. Thus, no limber holes for water flow and perhaps the reason for the extensive rot. It should be a lesson for those thinking about pouring epoxy in suspect areas. Trust me, it's a bad idea. It just provides a warm place for microbes to multiply.

My first reaction was that the builders put the frames in the boat upside down since I also observed top end cuts weren't square to the deck. I discounted that idea because I couldn't believe they would precut the frames. So either this is normal in the Sea Coaster or they screwed up at the factory. I'd like to know which before I replace the ribs. I think I mentioned in an earlier post my frames are 1/2" thick. Did they on these thin ribs assume the water flow would be adequate and no limbers were required?

I guess the next step is to crawl under the boat to remove the keel so I can get to the screws holding the keelson to the hull. Not looking forward to that, particularly since at least a third of the screws I've attempted to remove so far have crumbled under the assault of my screwdriver; I suspect I'll eventually resort to my multitool to cut them from above. I truly hate slot headed screws.

On every wooden lapstrake boat by Thompson Bros. Boat Mfg. Co. of Peshtigo, WI upon which I have worked, the ribs have "limber holes" at rib to keelson junction. But, I have only worked on larger boats, Sea Lancer and Off-Shore. I have never worked on a Sea Coaster. So, maybe the Sea Coaster did not get this construction detail. I just do not know.

If this was my boat or if I was restoring it for someone, I would build limber holes into the new ribs.

Andreas

Hi Bill, I also have a '60 Peshtigo Sea Coaster. Andreas told me it should have the drain holes next to the keelson but I have not lifted the floors to check. MIne leaks like a seive and it seems to hold water in the middle. I drained it from the transom on the ramp till it stopped, then it kept draining from the middle for a long time after it was back on the trailer, so I know I need to check it out.
If the holes aren't there, I intend to add them, but I don't know how to get them close to the bottom with a drill chuck in the way....
Verne

I don't think it will require a particularly large hole to provide enough drain space, assuming the bilge is kept clean and I will make one before I steam them. I'm thinking perhaps a 45+ degree cut leaving 1/4 to 1/3rd of the 1/2 inch thick rib end to meet the keelson. I will try to size the hold to insure the screw holding the rib to the keelson is in rib wood and not the hole. I'm also thinking dipping the rib ends in CPES before I steam might be useful, though perhaps the better choice would be to steam, install in the boat and after the curve is set remove them, apply the CPES and reinstall. Any thoughts on that?

I hope I'm wrong, but if your boat is like mine Verne I suspect you also have a rot problem and adding limber holes will be simply one more step in replacing the keelson and at least the rib ends.

My boat appears to be very low hours with not a lot of time in the water, so I am crossing my fingers as to finding rot. I know I need to remove the keel and loosen the side planks, rechauk the joints and fit it back together. I hope I'm lucky.
Verne

The ribs on my Sea Lancer are thicker than 1/2" , I'm thinking more like a fat 5/8. Your theory of the coaster not needing limber holes may be correct unfortunatly
Joe B

My 1960 16' 202 does have limber holes.

It also had a limber hole thru iner keel so both sides could drain. When I replaced the inner keel, I added a second transom drain plug for the port side.

My 59 Seacoaster 473 will drain front to rear on both sides of the keelson, now, after I spent the better part of a day with hot water and a bicycle brake cable outer sheath poking through the bottom of each rib to keelson joint to clear out years of dried varnish, small seeds, and other odd gunk that had accumulated. The coat hanger wire I first tried just bent and was too small in diameter to fully clean the joint. If you cut the spring steel a bit rough on the end and leave it that way, you can torque up the cable like a plumber's snake and drill through the gunk. I recently saw a small bronze SeaSense brand selfsealing garboard plug I think I will buy and install on both sides of the keelson just forward of the transom so she can drain fully front to rear every time. Then just thread some parachute cord through from time to time, front to rear, sort of flossing her ribs. Putting this floss in place down there when varnishing will help keep the drainways clear in the future. Regards, John