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I guy where I used to live in Wi has a 75 Johnson out of the 60's that he might give to me. What years did they make a 75 and how about the shifting? I understand the electric shift is not desireable. The hood looks good and it runs so I thought I would take it. I did just buy a 2008 75 ETec for my 58 Sea Lancer but if this is in good restorable shape and a good year, I think I will bring it home. Maybe someone at the boat show this summer can use it. Mac

A free outboard ? Can you turn it over ? If you can it's repairable. The biggest expense in any old engine is when they are siezed. If it will turn over often it doesn't take a lot to get them running. This is just my personal opinion but one reinforced by one of the best outboard mechanics around that keeps all my 50's small outboards running.


Brian

I too have heard this rumor about the electric shift OMC's being problematic. I have run a 1966 Evinrude 100 HP with electric shift for two season and have never had a problem. Maybe there are some problems with these, but not in my experience.

The 75 HP Johnson was introduced for the 1960 model year (same for Evinrude).

With serial number and model number you can determine the year from a chart at www.old-omc.de which also has lots of the old brochures posted.

Andreas

OK Tom let me take a shot at this... Based on my knowledge of these motors ( I have a 1961 75 HP ) I believe that both Evinrude and Johnson offered V-4 75's from 1960 thru the late 60's. The top of the line models had alternator charging systems (good) the others a generator. About 1962 the top of the line (maybe all) had electric shift. My 1961 Star-flite has an mechanical shift and the alternator. Some had conventional 12 V DC ignition systems others had magnetos.
These are all good motors ... the best way to know what you have is to get the model number off the tag on the transom mount and post an inquiry at aomci.org ... those guys will give you all the details.

Joe B

Joe... talking about 1961 75hp OMC units mech shift... I have been thinking I should replace the wiring in my Johnson. It runs fine, but the wires are sort of crummy looking. Do you know if and where I could buy a total harness with all the wires the right length/etc.?... I did see a place on line with them listed, but it didn't go back to my year. (I didn't call them yet).

Also, is it a fairly straightforward job to switch out the wiring, or are there some tough parts in the process?

It is not mandatory, but it might be nice to know I have all new wiring.

Thanks.

I'll take a shot at a couple of replies...
The 60's vintage OMC electric shift lower units are apparently good reliable units if the gear cases had been properly maintained. These units did not like water mixed with the oil.
John, as for replacement of the engine wiring harness. I think that you would be lucky to find a NOS harness, and espically at a reasonable cost. Best bet would be to post a "wanted" ad at aomci.org. For replacing the wiring, I'm sure that this could be done. My recollection , without going out to look is that there are a few special plug connecters that one would have to deal with but all in all, taking it one wire at a time it could be done. Be aware however that the original equipment wire was very high quality fine strand tinned copper conductor, some, perhaps all also had reinforcing steel strands woven in. Be sure to use the best quality marine rated wire as a replacement and solder all terminations. ALSO... if you have a 12 Volt ignition system there is one lead to the coil that is a special high resistance wire, you know about that ??
Joe B

Joe.. thanks for the advice..the wires do look to be special woven types... I guess I will keep my eyes peeled for options, but since I have no issues with what I have now, and don't usually go very far from shore, I might just leave well enough alone.

Thanks again.

John.

like they say ...if it aint broke, don't fix it.
If you see some crumblinging insulation, I wouldn't be adverse to applying a bit of good electrical tape, like 3M Super 33+... good stuff!

Joe B

I ran a 1966 80 HP with the electric shift for 4 seasons before trading the boat last summer. I had no problems with the shift and this was the smoothest shifting outboard I have ever driven. There was no clunk at all. I would not hesitate to get another engine with the electric shift if one were available and I had a need.

I just installed a 1965 75 hp Johnson on a Penn Yan I just finished restoring. This motor has mechanical shift, and I am anxious for the snow and ice to go away so I can get her out for a ride! Rich

I talked to the owner and got the numbers. model V4SL12 and serial# 2048813. It has the manual shift with electric start but no control wires. I have not seen it yet but the picture looks good and he says the hood is in great condition. I looked on the old OMC site and I think they made it from 60-65. A restorer of these motors says the earlier ones without the magneto are much better? If it is not gone soon, he is going to sell for scrap. He said the scrap value is $150. If anyone is interested,just call me and I will give you the info. Tom 715 272 1538. Maybe somebody just needs a hood or? It is in Ripon,Wi Thanks guys for all your help on my boat.

the V4SL- 12 is a Johnson 1960 75 hp , Magneto ignition , long shaft motor. Too bad it's missing the electrical wiring harness which would include the junction box and voltage regulator

Joe B

It seems my 62 Cruiser's Inc 302VCommander is rated for 90hp. I've got a beautiful running 67 Johnson 100hp Golden Meteor on it. Anyone out there with a 90hp that would prefer a 100 ? My insurance company is fussy about rated hp of any boat I insure with them.

Brian

I would highly recommend you do do change engines, the 100 is far a better engine, both in performance and economy. The 90 were not know as great engines, it was the first year of the 4 barrel carb! They both look the same under the cover, it would be easy to find a 90 cowling and even change the serial number plate. In 1960, max recommended hp was derterminded by (length x width x 2) - 90. Makes little sense.

If you installed a new 2011 90 hp rated at prop shaft hp and much better prop, you could easily pick up 5 plus miles per hout and be "safe" according to the insurance company rules. Make that 10 mph with power trim.

Find a different insurance company and maybe loose the hp tag on the boat, tags do fall off in time! Doubt anyone would challenge you, hard to find out what the boat really is even if they had a serial number, most ispectors or the law really don't care. If the boat engine combination looks balanced.

Model number indicates 1960 model year.

As an absolute minium, salvage the hood. Someone may be able to use it. Is scrap value really $150.00?????? That soulds really high. If it's accurate, I need to start gatering up all my scrap metal and bring it to the junk dude.

Andreas

John
Thanks for your post. I only came to realize that the boat was rated for a 90hp engine after having bought the Thompson CD that Andreas pointed out for me. Doubtful that my insurer would have access to that. The Golden Meteor runs so sweet, I did not in truth want to part with it anyway, but had gone through this stupid exercise on a small 12ft aluminum boat I use for a dingy last summer. The boat is rated for a 10hp and I use a 15hp on it. The problem is my insurance agent is my cousin and she checked the plate when she wrote the policy for it. The boat had previously been uninsured but I was concerned because it was getting used by a lot of friends for bass fishing near my place on Sebago Lake. As such, my cuz said she'd take care of it, brought a blank form upt to camp with her one weekend, filled it out for me and had me sign it. The underwriter contacted her about the fact that the boat was rated for a 10hp and she'd noted it has a 15hp on it. So what's the morale of the story here - - -sadly I think it's to not do business with relatives and to fill out your own paperwork at the least

Brian