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I have a boat with lots of frames, & the keelson to replace. Would it make sense to 1) replace the frames first and then flip the boat to replace the keelson, or 2) reverse the process? I also have to repair a couple of planks, notably at least half of both sheer planks and a patch to one other above water plank and remove, repair and replace the transom.

It seems to me scenario 1 would be easiest.

Seems to me that the ribs (frames) and keelson (inner keelson assembly) are best done with the boat right side up and the hull properly supported to ensure retention of shape and a flat bottom. Work on the garboard planks (those secured by the outer keel) are best accessed with the boat upside down. You mentioned shear strakes, these are the top most planks if I'm not mistaking, right at the gunnel, these I would think best worked on with the boat right side up unless you are planning a complete disassembly. Let's hear what others have to say...
Joe B

Gee guys, normally you are all pretty talkitive... but 122 views and only one response to Bill's inquiry. Well, what do ya' think ?
Joe B

Definately simpler to replace ribs/frames with the boat right side up. Probably the same for the keelson (which is inside the boat). Outer keel is easier to remove and replace with the boat upside down.

Andreas

My unease with this project is in the details. If I start upright, do I tackle the keelson or ribs first? Either way it seems I would have to work from the bottom to first remove the keel to get to the screws through the garboard planks holding the ribs to the outside keelson boards.

To do the ribs I also have to remove he gunwale board and the sister keelsons. (It's unclear to me if the screws holding the latter are through the planks or just the ribs.)

Or, can I use the brute force approach and cut all these screws with my multi-tool so I can remove/replace the keelson. Replace it and partially rescrew to add some strength then remove the sister keelsons and do the ribs. Then flip to replace all the fasteners, caulk, etc.

Thanks in advance for your advise.

Actually, you'd have to remove the outer keel and the bottom planking (garboard) to get at screws from rib into keelson.

Sequence of construction (boat is built upside down):

1. keelson and stringers are laid into the jig
2. ribs are bent and nailed and then screwed into keelson and stringers
3. transom is added
4. planking is attached, first nailed into keelson and stringer and then screwed

To dismantle, you have to go backwards from the above.

Or, you can cut the scews/nails that attach ribs to keelson with a hacksaw blade.

Andreas

I am also working on getting ribs out of my Grady. In addition to cutting the fasteners between the ribs and the keelson, I have also found that I need to cut the fasteners between the ribs and the stringers as these cannot be accessed from the outside of the boat unless the planking is removed. This is pretty tough going with a hacksaw blade with so many connections to the stringers. I'm going to try a Fein Mutimaster tonight that I borrowed from a friend. Hopefully I can get this tool at the fasteners and make quick work of removing the stringers and attached sub-flooring.

The assembly/disassembly sequence as Andreas stated is correct, requiring the removal of the garboard and other planks to access fasteners. However If you don't need or intend to remove the planks you can still complete the rib and keelson repairs. Screws into the keelson sisters will come out with the keelson, screws into the stringers must be cut (per rich's post). new longer screws can be inserted thru the planking and rib into the stringer and keelson sisters. Just ensure that there is no gap between these members at the point of fastening. You must have the plank/ rib/ member joint tight or you will not have a secure joint.
Bill, if you e-mail me I'll send you a sketch of the original construction and this repair assembly.... fixerjo@sbcglobal.net
Joe B

Thanks to everyone for your replies. I take it from them that I could:

Support the bottom both sides of the keel along the length of the keelson. Perhaps a foot each side? Could I get away with using some tires?

Use my multi-master knockoff to cut the keelson free from the ribs, garboard planks and keel. (Not sure about how to remove the bolts holding the Keelson to the stem.)

Replace keelson and temporarily screw garboard planks to it. (Again not sure how to deal with connection of keelson to stem.) Should I only replace the center board and wait until the ribs are ready to be screwed in to replace the cheek boards as was suggested in a post?

Cut sister keels free and remove the boards covering the top of the ribs.

Remove and replace ribs in a fashion to insure boat hull doesn't get distorted. Put enough just enough screws through existing screw holes in hull to hold ribs in place. Maybe 3 or 4?

reinstall boards along gunwale.

Add temporary hull supports and flip boat.

Remove hull paint and clean out plugs over fasteners.

Remove keel if it hasn't already fallen off. Remove at least the below water planks.

Screw ribs to keelson side boards.

Sand, seal planks with CPES, refasten and caulk planks and properly bed garboard planks to keelson. Caulk seam, Replace keel, etc.

I also have to repair both sheer planks and remove and refasten the transom.

OR, FORGET THEW WHOLE THING AND BUILD A NEW BOAT

Please critique my cunning plan.

Bill

Should be a square nut bolt or bolts holding Keelson to your stem. And you might think twice about using a electric multi purpose tool to cut your screws and nails. (Assuming that I am reading the posting right). I know that it takes longer but you have more control with a hacksaw blade. I use a hacksaw blade that has a handle on one end of the blade only. Electric cutting tools cut very fast and it is easy to loose control and cut thru something other than the screw. Even though these are brass screws they are still harder than the wood.
I used jack stands and beams to support my boat while working on the rib replacement. Tires are too soft. Even on their lowest setting I can still get under the hull to access screws. And I am a big boy. I am still working on posting pics of my recent rib replacement. Good luck and take your time.
Karl.

yes, what Karl said ! If your boat is on a trailer with a wide stance frame you may be able to support the hull with a couple of long 4X4 's along the length, one each side of the keel placed under the stringers (sister keelsons)

for sawing screws a fine hacksaw blade ( 32 tpi) works good.

Joe B

Thank you all for your responses. Your assistance has clarified my plan of attack.

The trailer the boat's on now won't work as a boat stand because it has rollers instead of bunks and getting at the bottom isn't easy. I bought it cheap to transport the boat home and planned to sell it and buy a more suitable new trailer to replace it when I was done with the repair work. I plan to use the boat occasionally in salt water so I need to upgrade and the junker I used isn't worth fixing anyway.

I build a couple of very sturdy stands, 8' long and built of bolted together 2X6 lumber on which I planned to put the boat upside down when I thought replacing the keelson was best done going from the bottom. I will instead extend them and run them lengthwise while working on the keelson and ribs. When that's done I'll put the boat on the ground, flip it and use the stands crosswise for support while I refasten, replace the keel and refinish the hull.

Incidentally, I found both of my local high school wrestling teams are eager to accept donations for boat flipping projects. The "fringe" sports don't get much love anymore.

Your on the right track now Bill.
Tires work great when flipping a boat. Put some down under the keel for the boat to rest on. Then put some under the chine(curve of the hull) as you roll it.
And then a few more under the Gunnels as you stand the boat on edge. I once flipped a 20' Chris Craft with just one helper using slings and two chain falls and a come along. Wish I had thought of the local wrestling team
Karl.