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For those who have fabricated new keelsons, did you find that the widest (tallest) point was not at the transom, but 2-3 feet forward of it instead? On mine, it's hard to tell what's due to rot and what was the original shape. I find that the old keelson is about 2-3/4" at the tail, but about 3" tall just forward of there.

I'm also curious (JoeCB, this is for you) about extending the "cheeks" beyond the front end of the center member to overlap with the stem. My stem is 1-3/4" thick, and the center member of my keelson is 1-1/4" thick. Extending the side members/cheeks to overlap would require either rabbeting them 1/4" each to accept the thicker stem, rabbeting the stem 1/4" on both sides, or running a 1/4" taper on both sides of the stem and a matching taper on the inside face of both cheeks. I'm also wondering how much is gained if I were to do this. Yes, it seems a weak spot, but those garboards do provide a lot of connection strength across this joint as well....

Thanks again,

-wte

Bill, it sounds like you are making significant progress. The task seems daunting looking at it from the starting line, but step by step progress will get you there.
As for the keelson height question, and others please comment, my recollection is that the top and bottom lines of the keelson from transom quite well forward are parallel, ie the bottom has no fore and aft curve nor has the floor.
On the extension of cheeks... Since I was doing these new I felt that extending them could only help the joint at the stem. As for width, I made my keelson 1 3/4 wide so the match up was not an issue. Bill, if you deside to go with a overlap, I wouldn't cut any from the stem. Maybe just rabbit out the cheeks.

Joe B