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I knew that the planks were screwed to each other with the little machine screws and nuts, two screws between frames above the waterline and three below. I had assumed that the planking was also screwed directly into the frames with wood screws through both planks at the laps. I seem to be mistaken -- are they only screwed through the top edge of each plank, which is then covered by the bottom edge of the next plank up?

If so, does anyone have tips on getting those screws out if you're unplanking from the bottom up? And what if I'm not even removing planking, but just replacing a frame? I could cut the old frame into short sections between screws and chip it out in pieces, but then I'm left with a bunch of screw tips interfering with my new frame, and I can't remove them without disassembling the planking. I could cut/grind the tips off, but then I'm still left with the head end buried in the planking.

Also, is there any reason NOT to drive the new screws into the frames through both planks, and not just the top edge of each lower plank?

Thanks ---

-wte

Your first asumption is correct. The planking is screwed into the ribs. The screws go thru both planks at the lap. Just sand off the paint and you will see the putty filled screw holes. Dig the putty out and clean up the slot and back the screw out. Easy peasy!

Andreas

So it is... you're absolutely right! My boat sits under a tarp at the bottom of my driveway, just outside my basement office window, where I can stare at it longingly while trying to accomplish something that pays. I just now ran outside, scraped a little deeper, and found those screws - thank heavens!

I guess in my earlier sanding, I had just not found those spots -- trying to avoid sanding too deeply where I'll not be replacing planking. One thing I did find last weekend in my sanding is that this white boat was once lemonade yellow! I'm not sure if that was the original hull color or not... there's white underneath the yellow, but that could well just be the original primer.

Another related question, if I may -- the bottom has that blue powdery antifouling paint that REALLY makes a mess trying to sand it off (as if the hard topsides paint didn't). Any recommendations on better ways to remove that stuff? As a trailered boat, I'm probably going back with a hard antifouling after my rework. This boat was apparently kept in a slip before Dave bought it before me, which explains the use of that blue paint.

Thanks again,

-wte

I have found it easiest to use a chemical paint remover before sanding. I have used a variety of brands with good results. I found that the ones they have at Lowes work as well as what I have used from boating supply places like West Marine, and for less money. Jim

The Sea Lancer was introduce for the 1957 model year. Her standard paint colour was white that year with lemonade yellow as an option. In 1958 lemonade yellow became the standard for the Sea Lancer with white as the option. Lemonade yellow was standard until about 1962 when battleship gray became standard for the Lancer!

I truly like the lemonade yellow (the correct shade) on my '57 Lancer. It is unique and stands out against all the white hulled boats you see, both old and new.

Andreas

Bill

Comercial heat gun and scraper worked good for me. Then sand.

Please note: The orginial paint is probably lead base, one area your kids should not help you with, or even be close! Are you going to be working in your basement under your house?

Thanks for the info everyone. Did the original lemonade yellow boats have white primer underneath? The yellow I'm finding under the white topcoat looks very much like the photos I've seen of true lemonade yellow. I like it, too, though I'm not sure which we'll end up with when this is all said & done.

For the time being, I'm just working on it outside on the driveway (behind the house). Good point about the lead paint -- hadn't thought of that aspect. I'm really debating now about whether to bring it inside, or at least WHEN to bring it inside. Reading about the smells of CPES got me thinking initially, now the lead. We're more than halfway through winter already... while there was ice on the tarp this morning, we're up to 50 deg now, which I think is around average for this time of year. I've got to noodle that one around a little longer. A wet Spring could really slow me down... not a problem in the South lately, but who knows?!?

We built our house with one garage bay at the basement level, with the intention of later adding a 2-car garage. The single bay we have would be a fairly tight squeeze with little working room for the boat off the trailer. On the trailer, there's no way.

-wte

Bill, yes, you should take precautions when removing the old paint, espically when sanding. the old paint was likly lead based. But, be espically careful when dealing with old anti- fouling bottom paint that stuff can have real nasties mixed in... after all it's designed to kill organisims.
Joe B

Bill, mine had the old anti fouling paint, I did like the look but had no need for antifouling paint. I had a inlaw custon mix the anti fouling bronze bottom color to match, using top side marine paint. Looks very good and is very smooth, for performance.

I have had very good luck with a stripper that you spray on with a pump spray bottle from Bix. It is called Bix Spray-on stripper and comes with it own spray bottle. You spray it on and keep the area wet with stripper by spraying as the area begins to dry. It will soak thru to the wood and will lift the paint or varnish right off the wood. I used it on an strip built Thompson Super Delux Runabout both inside and out. It went thru atleast four or five layers of paint without any problems. I did it outside unitl a awning I made using a polypropaline trap attached to the front of my back garage and stacked out with supports under the coners to keep boththe sun and rain off while working on stripping the boat.
The stripper worked so well that the paint literally slid off the wood as long I kept it wet with stripper. Granted it did take a few gallons to strip the both the inside and outside of the 12 footer, but it sure saved a lot of sanding and also eleminated the problem of sanding lead paint.
I think it would work very well on the self cleaning bottom paints too.
Those self-cleaing bottom paints should not be sanded without wearing a dust mask and full body protection tyvec suit. Have you ever seeing what these guys wear in the boat yards when they strip and resurface the bottoms of sailboats and such. They are cover head to toe and wear resperators and goggles. May be over kill but then being safe is better then the other possible result.

Good Luck

This is an interesting thread to me. I have a question. Is there any concern about the chemicals in the paint stripper effecting the 40-50 year old resins in the marine plywood that the planking is made of? I would hate to delaminate the plywood in the process of restoring the boat. Any thoughts?

You better not leave the stripper chemicals on the surfaces long enuff to have an affect on the adhesive in the plywood.

The adhesive is most likely resorcinol or phenol resorcinol. I don't see chemical strippers affecting it. But then again, who knows. Again, you should not leave the stripping agent on for such a long time anyway.

Andreas