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Can not get motor to fire. This old motor is new to me. Odd arm leading to distributor cap. Motor turns over-just won't fire.
Gas is getting to plugs-pulled two and had fuel.
Any suggestions on simple checks prior to taking it to professional?
Are parts available for this beauty?
Thanx

Parts for ignition are probably easier to find than a new engine.

NAPTA auto parts has them, as well as most OMC dealers. The dealer/ distributors for the Texas area is North Shore Marine, talk to Margret 713 453 6341. They will ship anywhere.

Sierra Marine replacement parts also makes them.

No fire?

Check if points are corroded? Best bet.
Is ignition switch working?
If you have the battery system (electric shift) hot wire to coil.
If mag type(manual shift) disconnect kill wire from mag.
Replace condensor, small chance.
Replace coil, even smaller chance.

In manual it shows how to time engine and set points, probably one of the easiest engines to work on the ignition system.

If you need help call me at 832 473 8928

follow John's guidance, he has all the likley problems listed .. and in the right order.
Did you check to see if you have spark? That's the first step.

If you are going to try and work with this motor, I strongly suggest you get a shop manual. The SELOC manual is pretty helpful and not too costly. SELOC manual #1306 covers all the Evinrude/ Johnson V4 motors from 1958 thru 1972 ( available thru NAPA) The best manual is the model specific factory manual... available from Ken Cook books, but it's pretty expensive.

JoeB

On www.aomci.org in the for sale section, there is an orginal factory manual, for that engine for $20. You can also usually find them on e bay.

After market manuals are ok, but the orginial factorry manuals are the best.

I hate to ask... but have you pulled each plug, and grounded edge to check for spark at crank....

When I first got my '62 merc 6 cyl, it had essentially no spark. The primary reason was because the points were shot. One set was corroded over so that the spark was very week - the other set (she's a dual ignition set up) was worn away to nothing. Rather than fix one link in a 40+ year old chain, I replaced everything; points, plugs, cap, wires, coils, coil wires, all of which were original. I also plan to rebuild the fuel pumps and carbs, and replace all the fuel lines. probably will do the timing belt as well. I'll have my family in my boat and plan on some big water. I want as much dependability as possible.

Thank you John for your time. After we spoke I determined I had spark. A little extra cranking and she fired up. I will take your advise on the tune up and other maintenance.
There was a tan milky foam on the water during running. Is this a concern?
I can now remove and begin to focus on wood!
See other posting motor stand suggestions.

I asked the very same question the first time I tanked my Merc. She's a two stroke. That brown slick foamy film is a mix of oil and fuel. These old motors are dirty, especially if they are out of tune. Some lakes are banning older two strokes.

I suggest that when you get to the motor you go through the entire ignition and fuel system and replace anything that is even slightly suspect. Frankly, if it's all original, I would replace/rebuild the entire fuel and ignition systems. Feels wasteful while your doing it, but….I skimped on the rebuild of the carb on my 67 beetle by not replacing the diaphragm in the accelerator pump, nor did I rebuild the fuel pump. Both were working fine. Third trip out I'm huffing fuel fumes. Fuel Pump was leaking. A few weeks later, suddenly the car would simply fall dead when I stepped on the gas. Accelerator diaphragm had split. After that, she started to misfire. Split spark wire. These old parts wear fast after suddenly being put back into service after years. Sitting on the side of the road, no big deal. Out in the middle of the lake; bummer (especially if there is weather coming).

I now step down from my Stump-o-worry

Woody

Before you put it up, get several squirts of outboard motor oil in each cylinder and rotate to spread oil, also drain gas from carb. There are two 7/16" hex nuts with a straight screw driver slot, that are drain plugs for carb, drain them.

Good luck

I have been meaning to ask this question, and it looks like now is as good of a time as any...

How hard is it to get and replace the ignition wiring harness for a 1961 Johnson 75?

John.. have you done it on your Evinrude...? and I think you also have a Johnson, same size same yr..

Mine starts and runs great... I did replace a number of things... plugs, points, water pump, thermostat, clutch dog, and a cracked fuel hose, bowl screen... the carbs seem fine, although I have carb kits that I haven't even used yet... But the electrical wires look a little spooky... old fabric coated.. I think mostly white... sort of dirty.

So far I have left well enough alone. But if it isn't hard to get the right guage wires or a specific harness, and if it isn't a lot of disassembly, I would prefer to know I have all new wiring.

Any thoughts.

Thanks.

John

You are correct, I have one 1961 manual shift Johnson 75 in extremely good condition, that came on my 1960 Cruisers 202. I have since purchased three 1960 Evinrude 75's. One is in great shape but less than my Johnson, and the other 2 are restorable. All mine have original harnesses, good thing is the 1960 75hp and 40 hp use the same harness, easy to swap engines. 75 runs a lot faster but burns 50% more gas at 20 mph, so I run the 40 the most.

Are you talking about the harness from dash to engine or internal engine.

Wiring harness starting in 1961 would be very easy, just wire and some sort of sheathing around wire. Match wire size and you should be good.

The wiring harness used with 1960 and before are harder, as they have a built in disconnect (plug).

I did replace a harness under the engine cover on a friends 1977 35 hp Evinrude last summer. Not cheap, but still available from my Evinrude dealer. List was about $180.

Lots of old engines around with good wiring harnesses, try placing an wanted ad for one at www.aomci.org .

I'm still not sure as to what wiring harnes you are asking about. John provided at couple of ideas. If you are talking about the spark plug wires, be aware that they do not simply pull out of the distributor cap, they have screw in connectors. Remove by twisting the wire to unscrew (counter- clockwise). The COPPER CORE spark plug wire, special threaded end terminals, spark plug boots and spring terminals are all available from NAPA.
Also, I don't recall you mentioning if your engine has the 12 volt automotive type ignition system or the magneto. A word of caution, on the 12 volt system the power wire (12 V) going to the ignition coil primary (+) is a special resistance wire, this wire can not be shortened or replaced with a regular copper wire.
The shop manual will cover all this.
Joe B

I am just talking about everything under the engine shroud/hood... I can't look at it right now to describe it better, but whatever I can replace, I would like to get it overwith.. It can't cost a whole lot, and it would be nice to know that nothing is going to crack, break or leak juice..

Mine is also manual shift... and is 12 volt... I have the owners manual, parts manual, and shop manual, so while I can't do anything else on the boat until May, I think I will read up...

I was just trying to see if there were any nightmares to avoid, and it if was a fairly straightforward operation. Thanks for the tip on the special resistance wire.....!!

I probably led you astray by my term 'harness'... I guess I was thinking of it as a kit or group of wires that were cut to length and matched for that engine.

John.

My opinion... if there is nothing obviously wrong with the engine wiring harness I would leave it be. Give it a good inspection for frayed or broken insulation. If found these can be repaired. The harnes carries only 12 volts so there is little risk of failure so long as all the connections are clean and making good contact and insulation is intact. As for the spark plug wires, these are most likly old and cracked, best to change them if that' s the case.
The most important "stuff" to replace are all the fuel and pressure hoses. These deteriorate over time and will pose real problems ( also don't forget the fuel pump, rubber diaphram deteriorates too ( NAPA has the kit pt # 18-7801, even comes with a fuel filter)
And speaking of rubber going bad... change the water pump impeller too (that's NAPA #18-3005)
Joe B