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I have just rolled my 20' Offshore over and now I am in the process of replacing her Keel and removing the bottom paint on the hull. I have been reading the #46 issue of Docksider and Don Danenberg recommends the use of a barrier coat (Interlux 2000E Barrier coat primer) prior to the application of a bottom paint. I am a bit confused.. The product description doesn't mention any use on wooden hulls. Has anyone used this product on their Thompson? What are the shortcomings or advantages?

Is this just a fancy name for primer? Definately put two coats of primer on the hull before the finish coats of paint. If you are going down to bare wood I suggest you invetigate and replace some of the screws, reputty screw and bolt holes, fair the hull, and use Smith's CPES on all the wood before painting.

Andreas

Thanks for the reply Andreas. In the article Dan recommended using CPES on the bare hull and seams then applying the 2 part Epoxy barrier coat of Interlux E2000 of approximately 4 coats on the bottom after all seams are done in and out. The reason I'm confused, isn't CPES doing the same job as the E2000? Essentially he is talking about 4-5 coats of Epoxy on the exterior of a wooden hull prior to bottom paint. Is this a good thing? What kind of primer is usually recommended when most of the paint has been removed, gouges filled, faired etc. and CPES has been applied? I intend on using Pettit Bronze bottom paint.

degerb, things get confuseing to say the least. I just went through this process with my seacoaster. If you havent done this already go to restortion pg 2 for the 16' crusier inc that txcapdan is doing and read the answers given by these nice fellows to my questions and perhaps this will help explain things. However I would highley recommend you talk to Smith & Co. at 1-800-234-0330 very nice people and willing to also explain things. And good luck with your project Jim Hays

Hi Jim:
thanks for your post. Dan Stober's project is really outstanding, a great job. I have a question for you.. What treatment did you use on the plank edges of your boat? I also have some gaps(1/16") in the lap area, along the chine where the planks have dried out. I don't know if I should paint the gap with CPES and then Gluv-It before I tighten the fasteners or after. I have Dan Danenberg's book 2 where he used a combo of CPES and Gluv-It in these areas. Did you follow his guidelines to the letter?
Thanks Don

Don the answer is yes I have tried to folow his instruictions and the advise from the fellows in this forum. This is the first boat that I have ever done this to and believe me there have been times when I have wondered if I have chosen the proper project. But dont get in a hurry just look at the things that you might do wrong and redo them believe me I know this is how you learn. Like tomorrow I will be cleaning the inside of my new transom that I let the stain set to long UGLY got distracted and couldnt get back to it. As I get towards the end of this project I will try and put up pictures and get all the experts opinions, I know there will be losts of coments because the boat will not be a true restore, it will have some changes. the only thing that worries me is the proper way of putting on the varnish I have never varnished anything in my life. I hve even questiond the use of so much CPES but did it anyway. GOOD LUCK Jim Hays

I have used the Interlux 2000E primer numerous times on fiberglas sailboats that are docked or moored for the boating season. It is intended as a water barrier to prevent fiberglas blisters and act as the primer for finishes like VC17, VC Tar, Baltoplate, VC Offshore and a few others they make for anti-fouling paint. Most of these paints are for go fast bottoms with anti-fouling properties.

Not cetain this is what you need for a trailerable boat or one that is not in the water for the season. Hope this helps.

Chuck
Lake Erie