Barrier coat

[degerb]

I have just rolled my 20' Offshore over and now I am in the process of replacing her Keel and removing the bottom paint on the hull. I have been reading the #46 issue of Docksider and Don Danenberg recommends the use of a barrier coat (Interlux 2000E Barrier coat primer) prior to the application of a bottom paint. I am a bit confused.. The product description doesn't mention any use on wooden hulls. Has anyone used this product on their Thompson? What are the shortcomings or advantages?

[a j r]

Is this just a fancy name for primer? Definately put two coats of primer on the hull before the finish coats of paint. If you are going down to bare wood I suggest you invetigate and replace some of the screws, reputty screw and bolt holes, fair the hull, and use Smith's CPES on all the wood before painting.

Andreas

[degerb]

Thanks for the reply Andreas. In the article Dan recommended using CPES on the bare hull and seams then applying the 2 part Epoxy barrier coat of Interlux E2000 of approximately 4 coats on the bottom after all seams are done in and out. The reason I'm confused, isn't CPES doing the same job as the E2000? Essentially he is talking about 4-5 coats of Epoxy on the exterior of a wooden hull prior to bottom paint. Is this a good thing? What kind of primer is usually recommended when most of the paint has been removed, gouges filled, faired etc. and CPES has been applied? I intend on using Pettit Bronze bottom paint.

[jim hays]

degerb, things get confuseing to say the least. I just went through this process with my seacoaster. If you havent done this already go to restortion pg 2 for the 16' crusier inc that txcapdan is doing and read the answers given by these nice fellows to my questions and perhaps this will help explain things. However I would highley recommend you talk to Smith & Co. at 1-800-234-0330 very nice people and willing to also explain things. And good luck with your project Jim Hays

[degerb]

Hi Jim:
thanks for your post. Dan Stober's project is really outstanding, a great job. I have a question for you.. What treatment did you use on the plank edges of your boat? I also have some gaps(1/16") in the lap area, along the chine where the planks have dried out. I don't know if I should paint the gap with CPES and then Gluv-It before I tighten the fasteners or after. I have Dan Danenberg's book 2 where he used a combo of CPES and Gluv-It in these areas. Did you follow his guidelines to the letter?
Thanks Don

[jim hays]

Don the answer is yes I have tried to folow his instruictions and the advise from the fellows in this forum. This is the first boat that I have ever done this to and believe me there have been times when I have wondered if I have chosen the proper project. But dont get in a hurry just look at the things that you might do wrong and redo them believe me I know this is how you learn. Like tomorrow I will be cleaning the inside of my new transom that I let the stain set to long UGLY got distracted and couldnt get back to it. As I get towards the end of this project I will try and put up pictures and get all the experts opinions, I know there will be losts of coments because the boat will not be a true restore, it will have some changes. the only thing that worries me is the proper way of putting on the varnish I have never varnished anything in my life. I hve even questiond the use of so much CPES but did it anyway. GOOD LUCK Jim Hays

[Charles Drumm]

I have used the Interlux 2000E primer numerous times on fiberglas sailboats that are docked or moored for the boating season. It is intended as a water barrier to prevent fiberglas blisters and act as the primer for finishes like VC17, VC Tar, Baltoplate, VC Offshore and a few others they make for anti-fouling paint. Most of these paints are for go fast bottoms with anti-fouling properties.

Not cetain this is what you need for a trailerable boat or one that is not in the water for the season. Hope this helps.

Chuck
Lake Erie