CPES prevents swelling ?
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CPES prevents swelling ?
Does CPES applied to wood prevent the swelling necessary for sealing and slowing leaks? I bought a 1963 T & T and scraped the rotted wood (not too bad) from the keelson, transom, ribs, etc. I then treated the whole bottom interior below the floor with CPES. Even though the wood is now supposedly rot resistant, did I inhibit the keelson and garboards from absorbing water and naturally sealing for leaks? [/b]
Welcome.
It is a falicy that wooden boats are supposed to become water tight by swelling. If your boat leaks, you have a problem. Fix the problem.
Nothing will stop wood from swelling and shrinking due to changes in moisture content. Sealers, paints, varnsihes may minimize it or slow it down, but they will not stop it.
CPES will not make your boat rot resistant. It is not some mirical googe. It is a sealer.
Tell me more about your T & T Boats boat. Made in Wausaukee, WI?? What is the hull ID stamped into the wood of the transom? What is the centerline length? What is the model? I am keeping a database. I have a 1962 T & T 18'-8" Surf. My parents have a 1964 T & T 17'-11" Breakers, purchased new from the factory in May 1965 at their liquidation auction.
Andreas
email: thompsonboat@msn.com
It is a falicy that wooden boats are supposed to become water tight by swelling. If your boat leaks, you have a problem. Fix the problem.
Nothing will stop wood from swelling and shrinking due to changes in moisture content. Sealers, paints, varnsihes may minimize it or slow it down, but they will not stop it.
CPES will not make your boat rot resistant. It is not some mirical googe. It is a sealer.
Tell me more about your T & T Boats boat. Made in Wausaukee, WI?? What is the hull ID stamped into the wood of the transom? What is the centerline length? What is the model? I am keeping a database. I have a 1962 T & T 18'-8" Surf. My parents have a 1964 T & T 17'-11" Breakers, purchased new from the factory in May 1965 at their liquidation auction.
Andreas
email: thompsonboat@msn.com
Thanks for the info. I did use the CPES with the intention of sealing the wood to prevent or slow down absorption of standing water on the inside.
Did I waste my time or will this help?
It could use some rib end and keelson (at transom and bow end) repair, but I don't plan on a full blown restoration right now. Going to float it (I hope it floats!) soon to evaluate the leak situation. Going to put a restored 1960 Evinrude 75hp on it. My first wood boat since I am mainly a salt water fisherman.
I bought the boat from a fellow in Ohio who had restored the topside and repainted the hull. The stamp says 3907 on the transom. Plate rates it for 100hp and I think around 1500 lbs. I think it is a Breakers. I haven't measured myself, but he said it was 18' length, 85" beam (?), 980 lb weight. It is from Wausakee. Looks just like the one on your website with the horn question. Dennis
Did I waste my time or will this help?
It could use some rib end and keelson (at transom and bow end) repair, but I don't plan on a full blown restoration right now. Going to float it (I hope it floats!) soon to evaluate the leak situation. Going to put a restored 1960 Evinrude 75hp on it. My first wood boat since I am mainly a salt water fisherman.
I bought the boat from a fellow in Ohio who had restored the topside and repainted the hull. The stamp says 3907 on the transom. Plate rates it for 100hp and I think around 1500 lbs. I think it is a Breakers. I haven't measured myself, but he said it was 18' length, 85" beam (?), 980 lb weight. It is from Wausakee. Looks just like the one on your website with the horn question. Dennis
I believe CPES is a good product and I use it on my boat projects. It is a good sealer, but it is not some cure-all for rot, like many people believe.
I suggest you replace or repair your rib and keelson problems. These are vitally important structural items for the boat. I would not dream to using a boat that had rotten keelson and ribs. It is just begging for trouble.
If you found an old 1940s aeroplane in a shed, would you just slap a coat of paint on her and put new tires on the wheels and then take your family up in the air for a ride? Doubtful. So why would you do, in essence, the same thing with a boat. Fix the rot FIRST and then do the stain, varnish, paint work.
This is one of my pet peaves and it is not directed at you alone, but at everyone that reads this.
With your hull ID of 3907 I agree that this is a 1963 model year T & T. The Breakers was 17'-11" centerline length. They also had a model called Sea Queen in the same length. She had more "stuff" and fully upholstered front and rear seats and vinyl on the front and rear decks. The Breakers weighs 944 pounds and the Sea Queen weighs 984 pounds. Both are rated for up to 120 HP.
Andreas
I suggest you replace or repair your rib and keelson problems. These are vitally important structural items for the boat. I would not dream to using a boat that had rotten keelson and ribs. It is just begging for trouble.
If you found an old 1940s aeroplane in a shed, would you just slap a coat of paint on her and put new tires on the wheels and then take your family up in the air for a ride? Doubtful. So why would you do, in essence, the same thing with a boat. Fix the rot FIRST and then do the stain, varnish, paint work.
This is one of my pet peaves and it is not directed at you alone, but at everyone that reads this.
With your hull ID of 3907 I agree that this is a 1963 model year T & T. The Breakers was 17'-11" centerline length. They also had a model called Sea Queen in the same length. She had more "stuff" and fully upholstered front and rear seats and vinyl on the front and rear decks. The Breakers weighs 944 pounds and the Sea Queen weighs 984 pounds. Both are rated for up to 120 HP.
Andreas