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My registration says it's a 1964 but the Transom number appears to be
C77638. The Centerline length is about 16' 4" (+ or - an inch), Beam, just aft of the windshield is 77", The Gunnel length, measured just below the rub-rail, seems to be 17' 11", The Transom width at the Gunnels is 64" (narrowest point), the widest point, at the spray rails, is 69". I couldn't find
any metal ID plates or Manufacturer tags. The original hull color seems to have been some kind of yellow/creme color, painted over with a red, then a white and finally a blue, by me, about 35 years ago. The front deck is a creme colored vinyl over plywood which I did, also a long time ago. There was vinyl covering the deck when I got it.
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Welcome,

The back rests for the front seat are typical of those used at the Cortland, NY operation of Thomspon Boat. Peshtigo, WI built boats had a different style of seatback.

If this is a boat made at the cortland plant of Thompson Bros. Boat Mfg. Co., your hull ID "C77638" indicates that this is the 8th year that this particular model was part of the product line, it is the 638th boat made in the year ending in the digit 7. The "7" could be 1947 or 1957. They did not make anything like this in 1947 so that narrows it down to 1957.

The measuremnts you give do not jive with anything listed in the brochures, however. If she's a Sea Coaster she should have a centerline length of about 15'-4" She cannot be a Sea Lancer as that model was not introduced until the 1957 model year tand your hull ID indicates this model was part of the line for 8 years (that first "7").

In 1964 Thomspon Boat Company of New York, Inc. was a wholly owned subsidiary of Chris-Craft. The Chris-Craft logo would have appeared on the dashboard. Also, the hull design of your boat dies not fit in with anything from their 1964 product line.

If she is a 1950s boat, vinyl would never have been installed at the factory. Of course I am sure you know that the windshield frame would have originally been stained and varnished, not painted.

Andreas

Thanks for the quick response. Yes, the windshield is a reddish brown mahogony beneath the white paint as is the 5" strip below the gunnel. It's
too long ago for me to remember if, when I replaced the front deck, I was taking off a mahogony veneered plywood or a vinyl covered plywood. Now that I think about it, there probably was no vinyl.

I don't understand your reference to a 7 representing the 8th model year.
The first 7, ok for 1957. Perhaps you were referring to the last digit, which is an 8. Then, that would make it the 763rd boat built that year, 1957, rather than the 638th as you suggested.

I will endeavor to make a really careful length measurement, through the open windshield this time, rather than the projections I have been attempting.

Ernie

On boats built at Cortland, NY up to about 1960, here's how to decipher the hull ID C77638:

C = Cortland
7 = number of years this particular model has been manufactured (starts with 0 for the first year, 1 for the second year, 2 for the third year, etc...)
7 = last digit of the model year (1947 or 1957)
638 = 638th boat of all models made that year

The Peshtigo hull ID system was differnt than that of Cortland.

Andreas

Thanks!
That explains my numbering confusion.
I'll get and post a more exact length measurement.

Could you tell me what kinds of wood (s) were used below the gunnel for this vintage Thompson made in Cortlandt, NY? I need to replace/repair about 2' of the supporting wood which was soft down approximately 1 - 1 1/2" where the Bimini top was fastened to the gunnel. Would it be ok to use scrap Teak or Mahogony pieces which I have from previous projects? Is "scarfing" ok for say, the top 2" of the rotted strip or should I just cut it out altogether from behind the windshield back to behind the seat? I want it to look good as well as being structurally sound. I am assuming the gunnel itself can be 3/8 marine Plywood, which is what the rest of it appears to be. No mahogny. I guess, as I get into the restoral process I'll take my questions to that portion of the forum.
Ernie

The varous species of wood used on these boats include white oak, Philippean mahogany, and Douglas fir. The marine plywood for the decks and other components that are stained and varnished is Phileppean mahogany. The planking is Douglas fir marine plywood with the exception of the upper most plank (shearstrake) which is Phileppean mahogany. The keel, keelson, stiringers, stem, steam bend ribs and many other structural components are white oak. Solid Philippean mahogany is used for windshield frame, seat components, transom, etc...

Yes, scarfs are acceptable means of joinery in boats.

Andreas

Andreas,
Just did a 2 person, all-adult, center-line measurement, through the windshield, and came up with a length now of 16' 9'' vs my last estimate of 16' 4". The beam seems like it's 77 1/2" across the front seat backrests which appears to be the widest point. The gunnel and it's outside port support strip, in that area, have been removed so the Beam is a little bit of an approximation.
Hope this info. helps in the determination of model type. The other info. you have provided so far will be invaluable in my restoral efforts.
Thanks again.
Ernie

The Sea Lancer was 16'-7" centerline length in 1957. She grew to be 16'-9" in 1958.

I would assume theat you have a Sea lancer made at Cortland. That first 7 in the hull ID has me perplexed thro.

Andreas

Could Cortlandt have grown the length of the Sea Lancer during the 57 model year, especially toward the end of the model run? We measured from the front of the base of the bow light, at the very tip of the bow, back to the back surface of the transom. It was not possible to run the metal tape measure in a perfectly straight line, through the centerline of the boat, due to the Bow light, the centerpost of the windshield and the motor all being on the actual centerline so the length measurement could still be slightly off, but not by much.

Ernie