thompsondockside.com

Thought I would start a new topic on this boat and add projects as they happen.
I called my friend Andy and invited him over Saturday am for a sanding and painting party, just bring his sander and come on over. like a good friend he showed up and away we went.
I had faired any small nicks and scratches that needed attention days before so we were ready to put a final surface on her for paint.
We had a nice day in the 50-60s but windy so we moved to the lee side of the shop and went to work.
Faired and ready

Gittin Started

Andy and Dan - proud sanding warriors

Sanding and priming

We then blew the hull off with compressed air and move inside to roll and tip Easypoxy Sandtone- an original color for this year.
I rolled as Andy followed me and tipped out air bubbles.

Half way there!!!

Almost there, roll a little tip a little

First coat finished. I added some 333 brushing liquid to paint wich slows down drying process and allows this paint to flow very nicely. Very nice for a first coat.


To work on this hull flipped was such a pleasure from having to do this laying on my back as I had to under my 20'er. I will allow to harden for several days before another coat.
Good friends make projects like this a lot more fun!!! Thanks Andy

When I recieved this boat the primer had been painted up the transom one more plank than needed, so I spent a couple of hrs sanding that plank back to bare wood. I always paint under water line and varnish above for transoms so I left last plank in primer. I sanded with an electical orbital sander with 100 grit until fresh wood appeared overall. then hit it with a 220 to smooth out.

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I use a stain mix of Interlux 2 parts Chris Craft red mahogany with 1 part 42 brown mahogany, thinned to house paint consistency with 333 brushing liquid. I applied with a throw away bristle brush.

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My practice has been to allow to soak up for about 10-15 min then buff out with a soft cloth. Old transom such as this usually take some restaining and blending to get desired effect.



I will probably still do a little more blending before adding an initial 3 coats of varnish.



I am currently preping bottom for a copper bronze bottom paint while she is still upside down. more to come....

Thanks for posting such great photos and description of what you have done.

Alan Sturgess

fabulous - stuff like this is what has me checking this site daily - cant wait for the next installments.

Dan THANK YOU this does more for me than just asking questions, however somewhere along I have missed on how you determine how high you come up on the transom and the side of the boat with the water line (59 sea Coaster). Im still filling rock dents and screw hole before I start the painting process. I replaced my transom that is why I ask the question, I will not be painting the bottom of the boat with bottom paint not really needed in this area. (boat will be left on trailer when not in use) but I want to paint the tan color for the water line, also the rest of the painting will be lemonade yellow even though this was not the orginial color for the boat. (White). Yes I do have pictures I took before I started. Again thanks for doing this I will make a copy of this posting as I have done with others. Jim Hays

Jim,
The water line on transom is usually just below where splash rails meet transom, this is just a rule of thumb. On this boat thats where the bottom plank on transom happened to meet the splash rails, I hope this is right. At rest the splash rails usually just touch the water at the transom. On my 20' Seacamper the water line on the transom is only about 6", I was amazed at how little water she drew at the transom.
I usually wait until I have floated the hull to find waterlinearound hull.
Good luck

Excellent job! Fun to see the progress.

I am painting the '61 Peshtigo Sea Lancer at the moment. Upside down.

Andreas

Dan again thanks for posting pictures of your project. what I would like to know is the amount of pints of stain you have used in the past for doing this size of boat. I believe my 59sea coaster is about the same size and I will be staining all the mahonany, had to replace all the deck and gunnel and transom. Im not ready for it yet but its not avaliable in the portland area seams strange and have to order it from seattle area (Fisheries supply). Just want to have it here when Im ready to start. But I dont want to have a to large of a amount left to sit around. last question for now, What grade of masking tape have you been useing (sticking) I have found over the years they still allow bleed through. Again thanks for your help. Jim Hays

Jim, I think I am on my third can of brown that I use one part so I guess I have used 6 cans of red mahogany. But this was to do a 20' seacamper with cabin sides and transom.
To make enough stain to do the transom will probably take 1/4 - 1/3 of a can of Mahogany and1/2 of that of brown.
You will need two cans of red mahogany to one brown. I usually spoon it out propotionality with plastic spoons from Wendys.
Good luck. I am about ready to post some on restoring the splash rails.

thanks Dan, But the boss just told me I wont have to go to wendys. She informed me that we have some spoons in the motor home. Looking forward to the upcoming post. Jim Hays

I pulled out the splash rails for this hull and they were ugly!! I was going to have my wood guy make me a new pair, then I started looking at them. They are over 6 ft in length and besides ugly varnish, and a couple of gouges that would be under the stainless strip, they were still some nice pieces of wood.

I used a stripper on them to help remove old varnish then scraped gently with a putty knife.

I used my 4" belt sander to get back down to real wood then used an orbital to smooth out surfaces and round edges.


After just this little bit of work they really looked great.

I stained and buffed out surface then hung up to varnish. am on my third coat of varnish and they look great!!!

Sometimes there is a urge just to remake everything out of fresh wood, but the quality of the wood these boats were made from is hard to come by now days. Most times all it takes is a little elbow grease and you can save the boat in its original form and original wood.

Dan I agree with the last caption what you did there is just what I did on a very hot day last year set dow with my finish sander and took a lot of smaller pieces and sanded them down to bare wood. Now I sit here waiting for the weather to change to warm so I can go on to the next step. (no continous heat in my shop) What I would like to know is do you make a mixture of sawdust (mahogany) or do you use mahogany plugs for filling the holes. Well back to the shop to finish sanding and then applying CEPES to the hull. Again Dan Thanks Jim Hays

Jim, I use mahogany plugs set in epoxy, after staining main part. I then use a chisell to cut off proud part, sand, stain and varnish. I apply bunges after some stain is in main piece so that epoxy does not seal wood from taking stain. You can even mix a little stain in your epoxy to solve that problem.

Dan or anyone else, I forgot to ask you this question it appears everyone uses white have found it here in gray would like to pick it up tomorrow in portland if the greay is ok to use. Will it make it harder to cover useing the lemonade yellow paint again thanks Jim Hays

Dan I must have done something wrong with the computor I sent a message asking about 2000E if it makes any difference what color you use white or gray have only found gray in portland. Thanks Jim Hays