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Jim... for what it's worth, I used one pint of Interlux Red Mahogany for my 1960 Seacoaster... it did the window frame, the deck, dash, transom, shear strake and along the top of the gunwhale... (not seats) I think I have about 3/4" or 1" still leftover.

When you thin it to the consistency of house paint, it goes further than you would think....

When I painted the bottom, I was able to cover from the plank that the spray rail was on (forth lap down) all the way to the other spray rail strake with one quart. I used Smith's High Build Epoxy Primer... (Moisture Barrier Coat)... I got two two quart kits, and Steve sent me one light gray and one white color coat... he said it made multiple coats easier to manage, and that proofed true.. I used gray, white, gray, white... I could always tell what needed to be coated without waste... this put me in good shape for the 3 coats of Kirby's white semigloss topcoats... (Would have only used two coats, but I got some fisheye on coat 2)

Like Dan, I also use plastic spoons... I had it pretty well figured out how many spoonfuls it took to do my windshield frame in my basement for each of the 6 or 8 coats a few winters back...

I bought a box of plastic spoons and plastic straws, which with your finger are handy to pick up a small amounts of mineral spirits, stain or 333....

In addition to saving butter and cottage cheeze containers, I found that a package of styrofoam bowls from the picnic section in the store made nice varnish containers ready to go when I was.

I also bought a couple of $1 measuring spoon sets, and measuring cup sets.... They help with mixing small batches of CPES, and other epoxy glues/etc.

Good luck.

White or gray what? paint? Use whatever paint shade you like. Now if originality is of importance, use the same paint shade that was appropriate for the boat from the factory when new.

Andreas

AJR what I was asking about is if it made any difference what color of 2000E to use before painting lemonade yellow on my project. Seeing as the only color I have found in the portland area seems to be gray and I notice everyone else is useing white. I know that I missed the answer to this question somewhere. What do you use to wipe down the boat before putting on CPES dont want to use something (chemicals) that will cause a different reaction to the CPES. I know from my street rod days what ever I painted I used laquier thinner to wipe down before painting. Anyway guys thanks for the assistance. jim hays

I have no clue what "2000E" is, so cannot comment on it. If you got Lemonade Yellow paint from Kirby's you could have obtained their primer in the same yellow colour.

Prior to applying CPES I typically just brush off, wipe down with a rag, or blow off the surfaces. I have never used any chemical wipedown.

Andreas

Interlux 2000E is a barrier coat system put on the bottom to a 10mil thickness and at least 2 coats above the water line,befor you put the paint on. Its in Danenberg's books. I just wiped my boat down today will cpes it tomorrow. Hope this helps explain it. Thanks for all the help will try and be quiet for awhile. Jim Hays

Dan, I have a request if (as my wife tells me at times) you have the time would you be kind enough to list how long each of those stringers for under the floor are I counted 12 in the picture perhapes more. I had none of this in the 59Sea coaster No floorat all and I would like to do this when I finally roll the boat over to work on the inside. Seeing the picture of the seat has just about changed my mind on putting back in the bench seat instead of putting in a set of after market fold down seats, so in time I will probably bother you for some measurement there to. all I have of the bench seat is two ends that I presume are the middle of the bench seat (front) according to the DVD on thompson boats that I have. Again thanks very much to all of you that have assisted me in my project. Jim Hays

Ill try this again the other post on the following question dissapeared somewhere in syber space. What I would like to ask is if it would be possible to get the measurements on each stringer (length) for under the floor on your current project I counted 12 maybe more? I know this is a lot to ask but it sure would help, the floor was gone in my boat but I could tell that something was used because of the shadow of wood that wasnt there. Looking at the pictures of your project has made me decide to put in the bench seat instead of a after market set of fold down seats so I will probably be bothering you for measurment and picthres of how the back looks. All I have left of the bench seat is what I would call the two end pieces (the middle of seat) according to the thompson DVD. From some of the responses I believe quite a few would love these measurements, again this would be at your leasure. Got my barrier coating today and will start putting it on next week. Again thanks to all for your assistance. Jim Hays

This hull had a hog in the bottom sheet where two wide rollers had been pressing on it. After sanding and running a rule edge over the indent it was evident that there was two gullies that matched the rollers.
I used a marine grade filler that I could trowel and pull a staight edge- used a hard plastic trowel for plaster work to force material into indent and make a level surface.


I sanded that then went to a marine filler that had fiberglass threads already in the mix. This was again a material that I could trowel and spread out. I not only had to fill indent but a hog of about 5/8" deep in center of a 36" run.

I kept up with sanding then adding more material with fibers, as I slowly filled hog, each time checking with straight edge to see where it needed the most fill.




I sanded again then went back to the marine filler to fare out surface and sanded that to start to return to smooth bottom.


Ikept checking between sandings and aplications with a steel straight edge to see how flat I was getting. I got it very smooth and level with in an 1/8" or less.



I then sealed with a thinned epoxy sanded, washed down with laquer thinner then painted with bottom paint.




I will let you how this works it seems to be quite an improvement to the surface and visually very smooth and a consistant surface to transom.

john this is the second time I have seen ref to 333 is this something I need to use when putting on the barrier coats? Dan Interesting (piece of metal) di you do this just to keep the boards from raising up while doing the repairs? Oh by the way guys I have put the horse before the cart so to speak I purchased a 45hp 4 stroke Honda for my project waiting for it to get here. Will have a 65hp evenrude 72 I think with manual to get rid of if anyone is interested. Again thanks for the help Jim Hays

Bottom Fared/painted/ keel strips attached/ splash rails installed. Time to call my pocker buds for a roll over party!
This haull already had crossbraces installed so once I was finished with all bottom details I was ready to see her right side up for the first time.

We backed her out onto the lawn and laid some lod blankets/ quilts to protect paint and keep grass stains off new paint.

With the help of Andy, Paul, Mark, Jon, Hilton, and Melissa on camera we lifted, pulled out trailer and set her down on her starboard edge. She rolled right over without a creak.

Once on her keel for the first time in several years my buds lifted her bow as i slid trailer under her and set her on the rollers. She slid right up on trailer at that point.




Thanks Guys!!!

Jim, 333 is made by Interlux and is a brushing liquid that is used to thin and slow down drying times for most of the materials used with these boats- paints/ Varinshes. The metal strip is just the keel strip.

More to come now that she is upright,

Dan

Dan, Thanks for the info. Nice very nice, I finished putting on my last barrier coat yesterday. Will sand it in a few days after I know it has fully cured. The weather her just doesnt maintain a steady temp yet and I dont want to strt painting until its in the low to mid 70's so I will have to wait awhile (usualy after july 4th) but I can see where this could become habit forming. Starting to see results from all the grinding fitting and sanding. I just have to keep telling myself that this is a 47yr old boat and not to try and change all of its character. I have decided to paint the hull and bottom with the lemonade yellow like I see in the thompson CD. I also found ou by looling in the Thompson CD that the front seat was just a bench with a back and no wide board on the top of the seat back and no cupboard on the back. Again Thanks All and keep it above water. Jim Hays

Look awesome Dan - thanks for the inspiration! Think I'll get back down in the basement and continue working on that trailer.

Great to see the visual of the boat flipping. It will help many people.

It's So simple, ain't it?!

Andreas

Thanks for the post. I have a similar hull problem caused by the trailer running boards. I was very glad to see this post. It is nice to know that we should be able to level out with filler rather than replacing the hull boards.

The visuals of the 2x4 frame you have on the boat also helped answer another question I have concerning protection of boat after flipping. Did you clamp it on at all, or was it put on through existing holes from where hardware and windshield were?

Dan, Or anyone else, at what point do you stop painting the new coats of paint? 1,2,3, coats 2nd is now on will wait a few days before putting on #3 if needed looks great with 2. Cant believe the luck we are having with the weather low to mid 70's and are predicting some days in the low 80s next week and I want to take advantage of them while I can usually doesnt happen until after Jul 4th anyway thanks Jim Hays