Drain plug - tube

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 7:46 am

Ok, so I need to install a new drain plug in the transom of the '59 Thompson Bros. Sea Lancer currently in my shop. The hole is drilled and I have the brass sleeve. It must be cut off to the correct length.

Question is, how do I fold over the edges of the tube on the cut side like the other side came in the package. I don't know if "folding" is the correct term. I want her nice and smoothly rounded like the "good" end.

Obviously any bending/folding must take place after it is installed thru the transom.

Any suggestion??

Option two is to cut her off a bit short and just have that cut end in a ways from the outside of the transom.

Andreas

Ducky · Post by **Ducky** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 8:15 am

The correct term is flanging.
The tool that you need is something like this.
http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/MOE/MOE2070000.html
(sorry for the crappy pic, its the best I could find)

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 11:07 am

Thanks for the info.

Yikes, $30.00 for that - I am too frugal to buy one for a single time use! Anyone near Minneapolis have one I can broow?

Andreas

jim hays · Post by **jim hays** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:48 pm

Andreas
If no one has one I will split the cost with you I need to do this with my sea coaster. Jim Hays

Rodney Syverson · Post by **Rodney Syverson** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 5:44 am

ajr: I inserted a drain tube in my transom and 3 in the splash well also. In order to get the drain tube at the lowest possible level it needs to be installed at an angle in the transom so that it is parallel to the bottom of the hull. This created a problem for making the flange on the tubing as it needs to be at the same angle as the transom is to the hull. I took two pieces of oak 6/4 by 3" and screwed together. I then drilled a hole the diameter of the pipe splitting the two faces. The face edge of my oak block was at the same angle as my transom. I then played with different exposed heights and carefully peened with a ball peen hammer the exposed flange and rolled it over at a ninety till it was tight up to the block. I then installed temporarily into the transom and marked and cut the proper length to do the same after it was installed into the transom. Of course I checked for fit before I finally installed with some 5200 and bottomed it out on the back. After curing over night I held a block on the back side and carefully peened the inside and rolled the edge over. If you have too much tubing exposed it can split. I believe about 1/8" works OK. Its a simple process but you need to practice a little on the drilled block so that you get the hang of it. Good Luck: Rod

PS By the way with the angle and thickness of my transom the standard tubing that Jamestown ships was too short. I hunted High and Low and finally found the exact same pipe in a hardware store that sold the old fashioned toilet fittings that were actually made of brass. They had replacement standpipes for old toilets and the brass tubing was virtually identical in every way as the old brass tubing off my boat and what Jamestown supplies.

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 5:49 am

Thanks Rodney for the tips.

I got my brass tube at West Marine off the shelf and it's plenty long.

Andreas

JoeCB · Post by **JoeCB** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:42 am

AJR, the advice from Rodney is right on... you can do a real neat job of rolling over the edge of the brass tube by carefully peening with a small ball peen hammer, just go slow gradually working around and around the tube... don't try to make the complete roll on one pass. Also, it will help if you ensure that the tube end to be peened is completely anealed (dead soft) before you begin. To aneal brass or copper heat to a dull red ( don't melt it) with a propane flame and quench in water.
PS, thanks for the great job on the rally... had a great time !

Joe

TreelineIII · Post by **TreelineIII** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:26 pm

I too will be challenged with a similar issue. I have the 58 cruiser vactioner, but I have a drain which was placed in to the botom of the hull about 4 inches forward of the transom. My thought was to pull out this from the portion of the hull I am replacing and put it back in to the new plywood sheet. Does anybody else have this kind of drain. It is a screw in plug which tightens up to a flange sort of a scoop which protrudes from the bottom about an inch. I was told that while under way I could undo this plug and it would act as a self bailer. Hower sitting idle it acts as a hole in your boat. Maybe this explains why I am needing to replace this area. Anybody?

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:12 pm

The drain in the bottom of the hull is called a "venturi drain." I have one in my '57 Sea Lancer. Works like a dream when water get in the bilge (rain water and splash/wave water only since this boat does NOT leak a drop!).

Andreas