stain need clarificaction from all you experts

jim hays · Post by **jim hays** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:44 pm

Blieve me guys I do trust your guidence. Im new at this, after reading dannenbergs book he states use a oil base stain, and I get a answer to the use of cpes and stain from rot doctor to use a water base stain (min-wax)!!!. I know this has probably been hashed over before but Im not near ready to do this(staining) but I cant start puting in the transom and use my just aquired cpes because of the weather forcast here for the next week (hot) 100+ possible so I will wait. I have been makeing a file so I can go to it when the time comes. Oh by the way Andreas would you happen to have the phone number of George Kirby paint I like the lemonaid yellow even if it wasnt used on my model I fell it really sets off the boat more than the white, 59 sea coaster, if not I will dial 411, I want to ask them some questions. Again thanks for the input guys. Jim Hays

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:22 am

George Kirby, Jr. Paint Company, 163 Mt. Vernon Street, New Bedford, MA 02740, phone: 508-997-9008, www.kirbypaint.com.

Tell George IV that Andreas sent ya.

Andreas

jim hays · Post by **jim hays** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 4:32 pm

thanks Andreas for the address, comeon guys Im still waiting on some guidence. I promise I will try and be quiet for awhile. Jim Hays

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 4:37 am

I have always used oil based stains, even for millwork and doors, etc.. in my house. I have used CPES on new Okume plywood and then stained it with Z-Spar oil based stain with success.

I have never used water based stains for anything, so I have no expereince with 'em and cannot comment.

Andreas

Darrell Van Eck · Post by **Darrell Van Eck** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 5:48 am

Jim:

I was going to use a min-wax type of stain on my 62 coaster, until I asked the questions here from the people that know. I had a color picked out and everything, combination of two colors. But I ended up using a filler stain designed for boats. The biggest thing that changed my mind was uv protection, I was told the store bought type of stains will not hold up in the sun light. My boat is stored in a garage but I don't like the thought of possibly doing this all over again in a couple years because I wanted to use something cheaper, and easier. Doing a new project is much different then re-doing a already completed project.

Besides that the filler stain is not that big of a deal to work with, different then what I have ever used before, but not a big deal. It sure looks great when you are done.

Jim I own several body shops, and I have learned over the years not to cut corners on materials, it will bite you in the long run.

jim hays · Post by **jim hays** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:19 am

thanks guys, I had already decided to follow danenberg (oil stain) I just wanted some input on what I was informed to do. Darrell I know what you mean about cheap is better, I dont follow that rule, BUT I shop around for the best price for my money. I built a few street rods over the years and I know what is meant by coming back to bite you. I guess my shopping around and checking prices comes from the fact that I was a purchaseing agent for the USPS vehicle Maint for 20+yrs. (now retired), and I told my boss (wife) the other day that doing this boat is more enjoyable than doing those streetrods. The only thing I have found disappointing is the fact being a greenhorn is tha I got in a hurry in buying the boat, not the model I wanted but as I progress it will all work out. Just not many Thompson for sale around here (oregon) of course the one I wanted shows up for sale 6 mo later. Again thanks guys I will be quite for awhile.(wife says yea right). Jim

txcaptdan · Post by **txcaptdan** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 6:40 am

Jim
I have had great results from using Interlux stain mixing #573 Chris Craft - 2 parts with 1 part #42 brown mahogany. this makes a beautiful warm brown without the overly red look of straight Chris craft red and warmer than straight brown. i then have used Captians Varnish to finish, which adds a slight golden tone.
My boat was gold when I got it from the sun bleaching out original stain and leaving only varnish. i found the original color when i began to disasemble the boat. This stain combination matched the original.
here she is ready for hull numbers
Good luck

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 7:41 am

Dan, that Cruisers, Inc. looks GREAT. You did yourslef pround!

Andreas

jim hays · Post by **jim hays** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:36 pm

Dan
Im almost speachless, absolutely gorgeous !!!. If mine little sea coaster looks half as good when Im done I will be tickled. I will be asking questions when the time to stain comes about. The next week will be pretty busy with more test for the week, time to make sure uncle charlie hasnt decided to show up again. Anyway thanks to all and keep it above water Jim

Atwater · Post by **Atwater** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:44 pm

FWIW , I used Varathane-Red Chestnut . It was pretty darn close .

Ron P · Post by **Ron P** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:38 am

That boat looks Great! What did you use for the copper bottom paint? And can you post a picture showing the Front deck...I m looking to see the vinyl that you have there. Is it whiteor tan or a original stripe? When I get around to doing my transom on my 64 Cruisers I will be following your stain instructions. Wow!!!

txcaptdan · Post by **txcaptdan** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 8:10 am

Ron, I used Pettit Copper bronze bottom paint, it is a good anti-alge and trailerable finish. It has a lot of copper, gallon weighs about 25 lbs.

I finished decks with a putty marine vinyl, and did center section of fore deck in a heavy texture beige and white vinyl, that I also used for cabin floors. The original was that fake white plank that looks so cheap, I may eventually apply a mahogany strip to that area.

here are some photos of her ready to launch.

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Ron P · Post by **Ron P** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 4:18 pm

Here is a picture of my deck from A Cuisers that I restored in 2000. I used the same stuff. Your boat looks fabulus...

Also is that a 90 hp Johnson. I have one on my 64 Cruisers Adventurer.Runs Great!!!!
URL=http://imageshack.us]

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tforero · Post by **tforero** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:15 pm

Hi gents,

This is my first post and I came across your reference to mixing stain colors. I have a '62 17' Thompson that I'm stripping and refinishing. After I stripped the windshield, I found different colored wood and I don't know anything about stains. I hope the link below shows up and you see what I mean. What do I use to get that red mahogany look? The finish wasn't transparent and you couldn't see the grain on the original.

BTW, I picked up this boat with my dad in Cortland in 1962. I really want to get this back to its original condition. It has been a fresh water boat for all these years primarily in the Adirondacks.

Thanks for your help.... Tom

a j r · Post by **a j r** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:23 am

Welcome. I was able to cut and paste a link to get to your pictures and see the boat. It obviously was made by Thompson Boat Co. of New York, Inc. at Cortland, NY.

I do not know details of design or construction of the Cortland built boats. I do not know if they utilized a different wood species for the windshield frame vs. other items on the boat.

I just rebuilt a windshield frame for a Thomspon of Peshtigo 1961 Sea Lancer. I could salvage the side lights which are Philipine mahogany. I had some Honduras mahogany here so that's what I used for the front portion of the frame. The latter is much darker and more dense. I was able to blend the stain on the two species to look the same. I basically left the stain on the Philipine mahogany longer before wiping it and also stained it twice. Worked out swell.

Andreas

thompsondockside.com

stain need clarificaction from all you experts

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