CPES
Moderators: a j r, TDockside, Miles, Moderators
CPES stands for Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. made by a Co. called Smith's.
Also available from other sources.
It is a two part epoxy of water like consistencey. It is used over bare wood to penetrate and protect the wood. Plus it is claimed to help strengthen soft wood tissue as well I believe. It is also said to still allow the wood to breathe.
Cannot be used over painted surfaces as it will lift the paint. If used over stained surfaces, stain first then apply. If used under painted surfaces is said to help adhesion of paint if paint is applied just as the CPES is finishing curing. Hope this helps.
Karl.
Also available from other sources.
It is a two part epoxy of water like consistencey. It is used over bare wood to penetrate and protect the wood. Plus it is claimed to help strengthen soft wood tissue as well I believe. It is also said to still allow the wood to breathe.
Cannot be used over painted surfaces as it will lift the paint. If used over stained surfaces, stain first then apply. If used under painted surfaces is said to help adhesion of paint if paint is applied just as the CPES is finishing curing. Hope this helps.
Karl.
I'd like to know how it is possible for a product to do BOTH?Torchie wrote:CPES stands for Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. made by a Co. called Smith's.
Also available from other sources.
It is a two part epoxy of water like consistencey. It is used over bare wood to penetrate and protect the wood. Plus it is claimed to help strengthen soft wood tissue as well I believe. It is also said to still allow the wood to breathe.
Cannot be used over painted surfaces as it will lift the paint. If used over stained surfaces, stain first then apply. If used under painted surfaces is said to help adhesion of paint if paint is applied just as the CPES is finishing curing. Hope this helps.
Karl.
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Phill Blank
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: Hurley, Wisconsin
Regarding Smith's CPES you can go to the following website and check it out. www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/index
All I know is that is works and has a good reputation in the boat restoration industry.
Good uck,
Phill
All I know is that is works and has a good reputation in the boat restoration industry.
Good uck,
Phill
For what it is worth W.Guy I agree with you.
This is something that Smith's web site Talks about. Personally I am not a big fan of expoxy sealers. I still maintain that if you use this product over a stained surface you will have problems trying to restain that surface should you have to make any finish repairs, with out stripping the whole area. And even then I don't know if you can get all the sealer out of the wood. If you go to a marine supply store they consider a product like Git-Rot to be a Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer as well. Plus this product is very toxic and must be used with the proper vapor mask and ventilation.
I know that there are many people here on this site that are fans of this product
and I mean no offense to them. I just prefer not to use it. I don't even want to use epoxy paints or primers for that matter. Not on wood anyway.
Karl.
This is something that Smith's web site Talks about. Personally I am not a big fan of expoxy sealers. I still maintain that if you use this product over a stained surface you will have problems trying to restain that surface should you have to make any finish repairs, with out stripping the whole area. And even then I don't know if you can get all the sealer out of the wood. If you go to a marine supply store they consider a product like Git-Rot to be a Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer as well. Plus this product is very toxic and must be used with the proper vapor mask and ventilation.
I know that there are many people here on this site that are fans of this product
and I mean no offense to them. I just prefer not to use it. I don't even want to use epoxy paints or primers for that matter. Not on wood anyway.
Karl.
I believe the factory finish for the bilge of these boats was Varnish. The bilge on the Off Shore that I have was painted at some point. Luckily, just between the sister keelsons. When the floor is put back none of the painted area will show.
This is an area where many people use CPES. You need to be down to bare wood as the CPES will leave a crinkle finish if applied over exsisting varnish.
Karl.
This is an area where many people use CPES. You need to be down to bare wood as the CPES will leave a crinkle finish if applied over exsisting varnish.
Karl.
How bare does the wood need to be?
I have stripped the wood on both sides and started sanding. During this process I starting wondering how far I need to take the wood. Completely bare? Keep in mind that the hull while be sealed with CPES then painted.
From pics that I have seen I believe that you need to go to bare wood before appyling CPES. If not it may lift the old finish as CPES is what we used to call a "hot" product. The solvents used in it will act like paint stripper and leave you with a crinkle finish.
Disclaimer:
As I don't use this product myself the above opinions are based on other posts as well as from Reading Smith's web site. Hopefully someone else that has used CPES will chime in here.
Also, if you posted pics they are not loading.
Welcome to the site from Northern Michigan.
Karl.
Disclaimer:
As I don't use this product myself the above opinions are based on other posts as well as from Reading Smith's web site. Hopefully someone else that has used CPES will chime in here.
Also, if you posted pics they are not loading.
Welcome to the site from Northern Michigan.
Karl.
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Phill Blank
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: Hurley, Wisconsin