Brian.
A. You apply CPES first to bare wood.
The solvents in CPES will react to a painted surface and make the paint crawl
or look wrinkely. Almost like a paint stripper.
B. Stain the transom before appling CPES.
CPES is a two part epoxy sealer that is the consistency of water. It is designed to penetrate and seal the wood. Trying to stain over it would be akin to staining over paintor varnish. Nothing would soak in.
But be aware. I have heard of CPES disturbing the stain as it is applied.
I for one am not sold on the merits of any CPES product being used over stain.
What if you ever have to strip, bleach and restain. How do you get it out of the wood.
Would like to hear other opions on the subject.
Karl.
Can I use CPES on my outside hull??
Moderators: a j r, TDockside, Miles, Moderators
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Phill Blank
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: Hurley, Wisconsin
Brad,
I have used anthing from 4" or 6" PVC pipe, a wood box and I one case my Dad and I used an old copper wash boiler for steaming wood. Just about anything that will hold the steam in will work and anything that will generate steam can be used.
When we used the copper wash boiler we actually boiled the wood in the water to bend new slats for a old taboggan and old snowshoe frame repairs back in the 50's.
A few years ago I talked with a pro at a boat builder/ restoration firm in the Madison, Wisconsin aera and he told me that they preheat their wood for bending in a tank of hot water for a few days then they steam the piece be bent. They have a tank with an electric water heater coil and thermostat in it and a float valve that keeps the water level at the correct depth in the tank. He said you will still break pieces no mater what you do so always have extras on hand ready to go into the steamer.
If you do not want to build the hot water tank even presoaking the wood will help in the steaming process.
Good luck,
Phill
I have used anthing from 4" or 6" PVC pipe, a wood box and I one case my Dad and I used an old copper wash boiler for steaming wood. Just about anything that will hold the steam in will work and anything that will generate steam can be used.
When we used the copper wash boiler we actually boiled the wood in the water to bend new slats for a old taboggan and old snowshoe frame repairs back in the 50's.
A few years ago I talked with a pro at a boat builder/ restoration firm in the Madison, Wisconsin aera and he told me that they preheat their wood for bending in a tank of hot water for a few days then they steam the piece be bent. They have a tank with an electric water heater coil and thermostat in it and a float valve that keeps the water level at the correct depth in the tank. He said you will still break pieces no mater what you do so always have extras on hand ready to go into the steamer.
If you do not want to build the hot water tank even presoaking the wood will help in the steaming process.
Good luck,
Phill
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Phill Blank
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: Hurley, Wisconsin
Brad,
PVC pipe will work for a soaking tank also. Place wood inside stand on end fill with water and cap it. Let it set for a couple days before steaming.
When I used PVC pipe for a steam chamber I drilled 1/4" diameter holes thru the tube about a foot apart approximately one third of the way up the sides with a long drill and pushed dowels thru the holes so the wood was held off the bottom of the tube. I then used a rag to plug the end loosley to allow some strweam to leak out. I used a reducer elbow on the other end reducing it down to the size of the flexible radiator hose I used. I connected the radiator hose to the spout of an old 5 gallon gas can with a spout and filler cap. I used my propane heater to generate the heat. I angled the pipe so the hose would carry any condinsate back into the 5 gallon can.
I have seen an old hot plate also work depepnding on the size of the vesel used for the steam pot. I have also seen and old tea kettle used to generate the steam.
A 5 gallon gas can work well as you have enough water that it will take a while to boiling it down to empty and with the filler cap you can add water without having the take the hose off the spout.
Good Luck,
Phill
PVC pipe will work for a soaking tank also. Place wood inside stand on end fill with water and cap it. Let it set for a couple days before steaming.
When I used PVC pipe for a steam chamber I drilled 1/4" diameter holes thru the tube about a foot apart approximately one third of the way up the sides with a long drill and pushed dowels thru the holes so the wood was held off the bottom of the tube. I then used a rag to plug the end loosley to allow some strweam to leak out. I used a reducer elbow on the other end reducing it down to the size of the flexible radiator hose I used. I connected the radiator hose to the spout of an old 5 gallon gas can with a spout and filler cap. I used my propane heater to generate the heat. I angled the pipe so the hose would carry any condinsate back into the 5 gallon can.
I have seen an old hot plate also work depepnding on the size of the vesel used for the steam pot. I have also seen and old tea kettle used to generate the steam.
A 5 gallon gas can work well as you have enough water that it will take a while to boiling it down to empty and with the filler cap you can add water without having the take the hose off the spout.
Good Luck,
Phill
I would apply CPES liberally to the bare hull... let it cure for three or four days... then apply one more pass 24 hrs before you plan to paint... That way, as the CPES cures it will grab the paint on one side and the CPES already laid down on the hull on the other... sort of gluing the paint down.
On stained and varnished areas, I stained them first.... and waited 4 or 5 days, maybe even a week ... I just can't remember, before applying CPES. I didn't want the CPES to lift the stain, but didn't want to do the CPES first and risk having the CPES impede the absorption of the stain and make it uneven.
Even with a filler stain the CPES sucked right into the wood.
Others may have other preferences.
John.
On stained and varnished areas, I stained them first.... and waited 4 or 5 days, maybe even a week ... I just can't remember, before applying CPES. I didn't want the CPES to lift the stain, but didn't want to do the CPES first and risk having the CPES impede the absorption of the stain and make it uneven.
Even with a filler stain the CPES sucked right into the wood.
Others may have other preferences.
John.