New fastening hardware

Bill E · Post by **Bill E** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:59 am

I'm at the point of putting together orders for my new fasteners. I've read warnings not to reuse old screws that may look fine but may be hiding corrosion and metal fatigue.

My questions:

Has anyone found #6 x 1-1/8 bronze wood screws? The ones I took out that attach the hull to the frames appear to be this size, but I can't find anything but 1" and 1-1/4" length. I'm afraid that 1-1/4" will poke through the inside face of the frames and that 1" won't get enough bite to hold well. Any thoughts or recommendations from those who've gone before? I'm not above clipping the tip of each screw before driving it into the hole....

Does anyone have strong feelings about drive configuration: slotted, square, Phillips, Frearson? Since most of these heads will be filled over, they won't show. However, my experience in taking this boat apart says that it's easier to scrape filler out of a slotted head for removal than any other type.

Are there any favored sources out there? Top Notch Fasteners seems to have the best overall prices on hardware. BoatFix has the best prices on sealants (5200 and Life Caulk). However, for the 600-700 machine screws I'm anticipating using, Marsh Fasteners was enough cheaper on the hex nuts to justify a separate shipping charge for that item alone.

Thanks in advance!

Phill Blank · Post by **Phill Blank** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:31 am

Bill E,

I do not think you will find any 1-1/8" length screws anywhere. I do believe many years ago many fasteners were availble in 1/8" increments.
Also boat manufacturers were able to buy in big quantities and could have any length made for them with very little up charge.
Oh for those by gone days.

Silicon Broze is what you what to use for any fasteners. Sloted head should be used for anything that is exposed and visable. Anything that is covered can be any style of drive configuration you want to use.

Also if you can get screws with cut threads rather then rolled threads they are better. With a cut thread screw the shank diameter is the same size as the O. D. of the thread and will make a water tight fit in you predrilled clearance holes. The rolled thread screws have a smaller shank diameter then the O. D. of the threads and will allow a place for moisture to collect.

Have you checked the prices at Jamestown Distributors? Also another place to check is Fastenal Company.

Good Luck,

Phill

Bill E · Post by **Bill E** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:40 am

Thanks, Phill. Yep, Silicon Bronze is all I'm shopping for, and in the cut threads as well. Haven't checked Fastenal, but I've heard of them. Will do. Jamestown is okay on prices, but not as good as Top Notch in most/all cases.

FYI -- A quick check at Fastenal puts them near the highest on pricing for the first few items I've checked. Maybe good for a few hard-to-find items, but not for the bulk I'm looking at.

Any preferred products for filling over the screw heads on the painted topsides?

Phill Blank · Post by **Phill Blank** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:22 am

Bill,

Bondo makes a marine filler that I have used that worked well.
There are a few other filler and fairing products out there by System Three, 3M, Interlux and Smith's that are also good.

Does anyone else have any products they have used with good results? Let hear from you.

Good Luck,

Phill

LancerBoy · Post by **LancerBoy** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 3:18 pm

I use Smith's Fill-It for covering up fasteners holes in the painted areas. Famowood at stained and varnished areas.

May want to check with www.classicboatconnection.com for screws.

I have purchased screws... from boltdepot.com

Andreas

john · Post by **john** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:13 pm

I used longer screws and used my deep dish 4mm 1'4 drive Craftsman socket to break the extra lenght off. First time I ever used my 4mm deep dish, knew there must be a use!

Bill E · Post by **Bill E** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:06 pm

You mean you stuck the pointy end of the screws into a 4mm socket and bent it so the point broke off? I'm thinking if I'm just worried about an extra 1/8", I'll use my linesman pliers and snip 1/8" or so off the point.

But hey... whatever works!

JoeCB · Post by **JoeCB** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:41 pm

Heed Phill Blank's advice on the roll formed thread screws... very bad news. Likley will break off at the shank when driven into even pilot drilled oak. Not only are the shanks undersize but the cold rolling process workhardens the brass making it even more likley to break.
I have a habit of dunking the shanks of all my wood screws into a non-hardening oilbased bedding compound (Dolphinite) before driving the screw, this to ensure no voids around the screw shank. The secret formula for Joe's version of Dolphinite ... mix a little RAW linseed oil into regular old fashoned plumbers putty to get a creamy consistency.

Joe B

john · Post by **john** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:07 pm

Breaks off right above nut, very clean!