He said he knew a guy that stored one in his shed, and the guy happened over one day and said how about 50 bucks... I said OK, and I had my trolling motor. I took the lower unit apart and cleaned it up, and resealed and it spun the prop real well... It is a 2000 Motorguide 54Lbs thrust, so I think it is a decent one for $50.
I had thought I would mount it on a U shaped plywood "Transom" that would slide over some foam or towel on my Seacoaster transom when I needed it. However, when I started looking more closely, I realized there was no room to fit it anywhere... The 75 Johnson's motorhead is way too big. I did not want to screw any plate or anything onto the mahogany transom.
I tried to think of any other way I could... Maybe I could have a board that went the width of the boat and hung over and I would hang the trolling motor over the starboard side. Maybe I could mount a plate on the horizontal piece on the inside of the transom, and have a removable arm that hung over the transom with a mount there.
For those of you that have faced the same problem, here is what I did, for what it is worth. I haven't tried it yet, but I think it will work.
I got a piece of 1" square steel channel and cut a piece about 21" ... Then I removed the two bolts holding on the motor lift handle. I centered the channel on top of the steel and drilled two holes. On the underside of the channel, I drilled larger holes to accept a deep socket. Unfortunately, the largest drill that would fit in my drill, was one size too small, so I had to run a cone shaped grinding stone in a dremel around until it was wide enough.
Then I bought a new replacement bolt, just a fraction longer, although that was probably not necessary. The head on this one needs to be ground down about halfway. I did this on a regular 8" bench grinder. Then I reinstalled the handle with the channel underneath. (The remaining bolt was just one of the originals.)
I also bought a piece of 3/4" square steel and mounted it on a chunk of 2x6. I used one carriage bolt recessed on one side and a wing nut and stop nut on the other. After drilling the second mounting hole, I removed that bolt, and re-threaded it in the loose channel. That way, the whole trolling motor and mounting bar can fold flat, and stay wrapped in a towel in the back of the boat, or maybe under a seat. When it comes time to use it, remove the 2nd bolt, swivel the bar up, reinsert the second bolt, tighten both wing nuts and then slide the 3/4" channel into the 1" channel on the motor. The ¾ channel slides BY the first bolt, which is why it has to be ground down halfway, and then stops when it hits the second bolt.
I didn't really like adding the 30 or whatever lbs to the motor weight on the transom, but I may never have to use this setup. But, if I do, I am thinking that using the trolling motor, with what, maybe 1-2 hp equivalent, will be a lot better than the 5 foot paddle that I carry. Whenever I have paddled, it seems the wind and waves easily overcome my efforts.
So, I will try this the next time I am on a lake... If the trolling motor torque happens to turn the big motor, I will make the troller fixed, and steer by moving the Johnson with the steering wheel.
I will also paint the bar on the motor a warm white to match the motor, and maybe even cut an inch or two off each side. If I go to a boat show, I can pull the bar and remount the lift handle in a flash.
Hope this gives those of you with a narrow transom an option to consider.
John.
