Andreas said that 1 gal of cpes would be more than enough for my boat. I have a 17' sea lancer (I think) and wanted to know how much material I was going to need. Since these materials are not cheap, I figured it would make sense to find out what quantities of stuff you were using!
How much stain for the topsides and inside?
How much Varnish will I need for the topside and inside?
How much paint for the hull?
Thanks a ton.
Evan
Quantity of paint/stain/varnish CPES ?
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Phill Blank
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: Hurley, Wisconsin
Evan,
As to the quantity of paint and varnish you will need is going to depnd on how many coats you are planning on using and how you are cutting the varnish with thinner.
Unless you are custom mixing your stain or paint color one can always purchase more as needed.
If you go with quarts it may cost you a little more but then you are sure you will always be using fresh paint and varnish and a partal quart can will keep better then a quart left in a gallon can.
A quart of varnish goes a long way especially when it is cut to aid in brushing on and allowing the brush marks to smooth out to a level surface. I think two quarts would get most of the work done.
Paint is the same as varnish.
Stain I would think a quart will get things going well as if I recall correctly the only things that are stained are the decks, top strake and transom inside and out and the dashboard. Possibly the seats and their supports also. The rest of the hull interior is just varnished with out staining. Here again it depends on the porosity of the mahagany. If you are using a standard stain color start with one quart and purchase more if needed. If it is a custom mix you are using get two quarts. Filler stains will keep fairly long if the can is not opened.
Hope that helps.
Phill
As to the quantity of paint and varnish you will need is going to depnd on how many coats you are planning on using and how you are cutting the varnish with thinner.
Unless you are custom mixing your stain or paint color one can always purchase more as needed.
If you go with quarts it may cost you a little more but then you are sure you will always be using fresh paint and varnish and a partal quart can will keep better then a quart left in a gallon can.
A quart of varnish goes a long way especially when it is cut to aid in brushing on and allowing the brush marks to smooth out to a level surface. I think two quarts would get most of the work done.
Paint is the same as varnish.
Stain I would think a quart will get things going well as if I recall correctly the only things that are stained are the decks, top strake and transom inside and out and the dashboard. Possibly the seats and their supports also. The rest of the hull interior is just varnished with out staining. Here again it depends on the porosity of the mahagany. If you are using a standard stain color start with one quart and purchase more if needed. If it is a custom mix you are using get two quarts. Filler stains will keep fairly long if the can is not opened.
Hope that helps.
Phill
Phil, actually that is very helpful. I was thinking I would need a gallon or more of varnish for example...
So let me change the scope of the question;
How much materials do I need to get started?
Answer sounds like;
Quart stain - Zspar mohogany
Quart Varnish - Interlux goldspar OR Zspar flagship
Quart bottom paint - Going to order the Kirby lemonade color
Thanks.
Evan
So let me change the scope of the question;
How much materials do I need to get started?
Answer sounds like;
Quart stain - Zspar mohogany
Quart Varnish - Interlux goldspar OR Zspar flagship
Quart bottom paint - Going to order the Kirby lemonade color
Thanks.
Evan
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Phill Blank
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: Hurley, Wisconsin
Evan,
I would think you will need more then one quart of paint especially as you are ordering it from Kurby and not from the local marine store.
I am not sure how much would be needed, but I would think you need to order atleast two quarts maybe three. If the can is not opened it has a good shelf life.
Maybe Andeaus has a better idea of the amount of paint required for your size hull.
Also look at your local paint store for the product you spray into the can when resealing the paint can to help eliminate the skinning over of the paint and varnish. Especially when you are finished and the cans will be stored for a year or two.
Good Luck!
Phill
I would think you will need more then one quart of paint especially as you are ordering it from Kurby and not from the local marine store.
I am not sure how much would be needed, but I would think you need to order atleast two quarts maybe three. If the can is not opened it has a good shelf life.
Maybe Andeaus has a better idea of the amount of paint required for your size hull.
Also look at your local paint store for the product you spray into the can when resealing the paint can to help eliminate the skinning over of the paint and varnish. Especially when you are finished and the cans will be stored for a year or two.
Good Luck!
Phill
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thegammas
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
- Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject
I noted that no one talked about CPES.
I used CPES on the bilge area of my boat. Using a paint scraper I scrapped away all the loose varnish, dirt, and on some ribs up to 1/8 of bad wood. Also scraped the outer keel and stem (which are nice and solid)
I spread two heavy coats in the bilge, bow to transom, up to and including the first strake after the garboard panel; two coats on the outer stem/keel. I used about 1 gallon. Let me say again, heavy coats.
How much CPES is used depends on the condition of the wood. The more porous the wood (from rot or general condition or type of wood) the more material is used. So, if you use it on the plywood strakes it wont take up much since it will soak into the first layer, not into the layers beyond the first layer of glue.
CPES makes an excellent primer under varnish, or so the product materials say. So if you are going to clean and re-varnish the strakes and ribs in the inside, perhaps CPES them first (definitely read the product materials to get a sense of the timing required to get the benefit of the CPES.
I used CPES on the bilge area of my boat. Using a paint scraper I scrapped away all the loose varnish, dirt, and on some ribs up to 1/8 of bad wood. Also scraped the outer keel and stem (which are nice and solid)
I spread two heavy coats in the bilge, bow to transom, up to and including the first strake after the garboard panel; two coats on the outer stem/keel. I used about 1 gallon. Let me say again, heavy coats.
How much CPES is used depends on the condition of the wood. The more porous the wood (from rot or general condition or type of wood) the more material is used. So, if you use it on the plywood strakes it wont take up much since it will soak into the first layer, not into the layers beyond the first layer of glue.
CPES makes an excellent primer under varnish, or so the product materials say. So if you are going to clean and re-varnish the strakes and ribs in the inside, perhaps CPES them first (definitely read the product materials to get a sense of the timing required to get the benefit of the CPES.
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
Thanks Peter, I guess Ill order a gallon and just order more if I need more. I know the plywood won't take it up very well/much but it certainly won't hurt. I took a closer look at the transom and its in good shape but could likely use some work too. I may take it apart and reglue the transom pieces together.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
Evan.. I bought a two gallon kit of CPES... and used it on the inside bottom, but not above the floorline... I did not want to strip the old varnish, and CPES will cause old varnish to bubble up like stripper does.
I used CPES over the stained transom, dash, deck, shearstrake, and gunwale... I believe it helps hold the topcoat. I let the stain dry, I think about a week, to make sure CPES didn't lift the stain...
I have since ordered even more CPES, since I use it for a lot of other things, like deck, window sill, birdhouse repair, and so forth.
I applied CPES to the overturned hull before applying a moisture barrier coat... Smith's Hi Build Epoxy Primer. I did it (CPES) several times, to let is soak into the keel... I let that sit about 4 days, and did it again... then applied it from spray rail to spray rail a final time lightly 24hrs before I applied the MB coat.. (I did 4 MB coats using a quart each time)
As far as varnish goes, I used Schooner, and recommend getting 4-6 quarts. I applied 6-8 coats on the transom, deck, and dash, and I think 5 on the inside. But I also did the seats over a winter, with about 6 coats. Quarts may have less waste than gallons, and you can get pretty good deals on quarts... they should be about $23-24/gal.. I think I got a gallon for $73 at Jamestown. If you get a gallon, I found that taking a sheet of food plastic wrap, and laying it on the top of the varnish inside the can before sealing, helped to minimize the skimming layer on the top.
I used semi gloss Kirby's.. some guys use gloss...
I used Interlux Red Mahogany stain, and was surprised that I only used about 3/4 can... you thin it to the consistency of house paint.
Good luck.
I used CPES over the stained transom, dash, deck, shearstrake, and gunwale... I believe it helps hold the topcoat. I let the stain dry, I think about a week, to make sure CPES didn't lift the stain...
I have since ordered even more CPES, since I use it for a lot of other things, like deck, window sill, birdhouse repair, and so forth.
I applied CPES to the overturned hull before applying a moisture barrier coat... Smith's Hi Build Epoxy Primer. I did it (CPES) several times, to let is soak into the keel... I let that sit about 4 days, and did it again... then applied it from spray rail to spray rail a final time lightly 24hrs before I applied the MB coat.. (I did 4 MB coats using a quart each time)
As far as varnish goes, I used Schooner, and recommend getting 4-6 quarts. I applied 6-8 coats on the transom, deck, and dash, and I think 5 on the inside. But I also did the seats over a winter, with about 6 coats. Quarts may have less waste than gallons, and you can get pretty good deals on quarts... they should be about $23-24/gal.. I think I got a gallon for $73 at Jamestown. If you get a gallon, I found that taking a sheet of food plastic wrap, and laying it on the top of the varnish inside the can before sealing, helped to minimize the skimming layer on the top.
I used semi gloss Kirby's.. some guys use gloss...
I used Interlux Red Mahogany stain, and was surprised that I only used about 3/4 can... you thin it to the consistency of house paint.
Good luck.
John, I hate to ask to have my hand held but can you link the varnish your talking about? I have been looking at the interlux schooner products and they all seem to be pretty expensive at about 120/gallon. I mean, I am alright with that if that is the cost of doing business but your stuff sounds great too.
Thanks everyone for the wonderful suggestions. I am going to CPES the inside of my boat. The varnish is totally jacked and needs replacement. I may not do it up under the bow area because that still looks pretty good though.
Sounds like I won't regret having CPES around. Hell I wish I knew about the stuff before I painted my cedar house! I had it stripped to bare wood. I have to do the front next year so I may CPES the whole thing.
Evan
Thanks everyone for the wonderful suggestions. I am going to CPES the inside of my boat. The varnish is totally jacked and needs replacement. I may not do it up under the bow area because that still looks pretty good though.
Sounds like I won't regret having CPES around. Hell I wish I knew about the stuff before I painted my cedar house! I had it stripped to bare wood. I have to do the front next year so I may CPES the whole thing.
Evan
I just noticed that the Schooner that is available is GOLD.. I used #96..
I saw a quick reference that said the Gold is a replacement to the #96...and I guess there are some complaints for the Gold...
I would search to see if you can still get the Schooner #96... one place is this site.
http://www.merrittsupply.com/Interlux-S ... 0C571.aspx
Looks like Schooner is about $17/qt after a discount... I would snap up those cans asap... the Gold lists at $55 vs the $28 of the #96...
I saw a quick reference that said the Gold is a replacement to the #96...and I guess there are some complaints for the Gold...
I would search to see if you can still get the Schooner #96... one place is this site.
http://www.merrittsupply.com/Interlux-S ... 0C571.aspx
Looks like Schooner is about $17/qt after a discount... I would snap up those cans asap... the Gold lists at $55 vs the $28 of the #96...
On second look, although the pic shows a quart, the price of $17 looks like it is for a pint... so maybe you will have to do some more searching... maybe you can find a USBOAT or marine supply that still has the #96 at an old price... I last bought mine perhaps three years ago, so it is probably unfair for me to guess at what the price should be now.
Evan.. did you get your varnish ?.... I can't find it anywhere...
I ordered 4 qts. from Lacy Marine.... the order took, but they canceled it...
In emails with the company, I understand that they are out.. (of Schooner 96)... I called West Marine and they said they have been out quite a while.
Just curious about whether you actually received yours.
John.
I ordered 4 qts. from Lacy Marine.... the order took, but they canceled it...
In emails with the company, I understand that they are out.. (of Schooner 96)... I called West Marine and they said they have been out quite a while.
Just curious about whether you actually received yours.
John.