stain

[jim hays]

on dockside boats there is a picture of Dan and Lucia Edgcomg's boat. What I would like to know is if anyone can tell me what Brand and color of stain they have osed on th emahogany portion of the boat it looks like a shade of walnut but I would like someone with better eyes than mine to a thought on it. Thanks to all Jim Hays

[a j r]

Cannot tell you what stain they used, but from what I can tell, it looks too dark and too brown to match the original factory colour.

Andreas

[JoeCB]

Andreas, did you ever get around to trying the Z-Spar #1095 Standard Mahogany... ref, previous thread on stain tints. I believe that this is the closest match to the original Peshtigo factory tint. Your thoughts ?
Joe

[a j r]

Hey Joe, Yup, I just last week stained the '61 Peshtigo Sea Lancer with the Z-Spar Standard mahogany. So far so good!

Andreas

[jim hays]

Hi guys well UPS delivered my stain and other items friday anyway I did not realize that the stain being used on these project was in a paste form therefore it didnt make sense to me about thinning down to paint consistance to apply (all the stains I have ever used run like water). Well Dan I will use your formula and thin with 333 until it flows like paint. However how much does a person try to mix at one time? At 20+ a pint one does not want to mix up to much at a time. AJR I got a answer from MR.Edgcomg about his stain said it was one of those items that a company he was working for had to get rid of (good old OSHA) anyway he will probably be asking questions on how to do some repairs to his boat he stated some DRUNK boater ran into the back of his boat and all but sank it. Needs new transom ETC. Well thanks guys Jim Hays

[txcaptdan]

Jim, I usually take one or two heaping spoonfuls , I use disposable plastic picnic spoons, and put in a clean plastic bowl then add some 333 and mix it up until it becomes a thick housepaint consistancy. The stains are usually filler stains so they should be applied fairly thickly then lightly buffed out allowing some of the stain to remain in wood grain surface to fill minute places and smooth out finish. How much you buff will depend upon how you want surface to look like. Remember you can always add another coat of stain if needed, or use 333 to wipe down and remove/ thin heavy coat.
I usually apply then allow it to set until surface begins to dry out just a little aprox 5-8 min. then buff it out. A little trial and error is always the best idea.
Good Luck

[mike mcintyre]

The old time chriscraft restorers use burlap bags (gunny sacks) and rub accross the grain to prevent lifting the filler from the wood grain. I still have a few pieces of burlap and have found that to be the best material to prevent lifting and getting a good fill. Just my 2 cents. Mike

[Phill Blank]

Mike,

I agree! I still remember from High School shop class that is what we used when staining any wood that had a open grain. Thin the stain filler a little so we could put it on the wood with a stiff brush letting it set for a period of time and then wipe it off with burlap fabric across the gain pushing it into the open grain to get a smoth surface and wiping off the surplus filler stain. Then sealing and sanding before finishing with varnish.
It takes time but in the long run will give you a better finish in the long run.
We sometimes get impatient and want things to happen faster then they should. I guess that is a problem we have with life moving so fast "Get er Done".
Not allowing it to take it's time to be done right!