I'm looking at purchasing a Thompson 1966 Lapstrake cuddy cabin. It is the model that has on outboard. First, I am not quite sure it is a '66, so I would like some info on that model if anyone knows anything about it so I can confirm the date , etc. Next, I would like to know what it is worth. The motor is a 1977 and I will replace it. I would also replace the trailer.
I know thay are both worthless - so I am just talking about the boat - which appears to be in good shape. I will have it surveyed, but some of you are experts on these boats so I value you opinions as well. Finally, I am worried about it leaking. It has been out of the water for most of its life so I know it will show water when I put it in, but how tough is it to fix if it keeps leaking? (It has a new automatic bilge pump and that worries me!!)
1966 Cuddy Cabin - Need Info Please
Moderators: a j r, TDockside, Miles, Moderators
Hi and welcome,
What company built this boat? Thompson Bros. Boat Mfg. Co. of Peshtigo, Wisc. OR Thompson Boat Company of New York, Inc. of Cortland, NY?
Look at the "What Do I have?" icon on this website and ALSO "How to ID..." at www.freewebs.com/thompsonboat/index.html to get an idea about how to identfy the make, model, and year. You are welcome to send pictures directly to me as well: thompsonboat@msn.com
Leaking will be the focus of the next "Thompson Dockside" newsletter.
Make certain you look under the floor boards. Look for decay in the keelson and sister keelsons and also at the ribs where they meet the keelson. Check the junction of the hull planking and the transom. Poke around. If you can push into the wood - it is a sign of decay. Look for cracked and split wood. Look for darkened wood - another sign of decay. Look for broken fasteners.
Why does a bilge pump woory you? They are a very important safety item to have on any boat, no matter the age, material, or style.
Hope this helps.
Andreas
What company built this boat? Thompson Bros. Boat Mfg. Co. of Peshtigo, Wisc. OR Thompson Boat Company of New York, Inc. of Cortland, NY?
Look at the "What Do I have?" icon on this website and ALSO "How to ID..." at www.freewebs.com/thompsonboat/index.html to get an idea about how to identfy the make, model, and year. You are welcome to send pictures directly to me as well: thompsonboat@msn.com
Leaking will be the focus of the next "Thompson Dockside" newsletter.
Make certain you look under the floor boards. Look for decay in the keelson and sister keelsons and also at the ribs where they meet the keelson. Check the junction of the hull planking and the transom. Poke around. If you can push into the wood - it is a sign of decay. Look for cracked and split wood. Look for darkened wood - another sign of decay. Look for broken fasteners.
Why does a bilge pump woory you? They are a very important safety item to have on any boat, no matter the age, material, or style.
Hope this helps.
Andreas
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- Posts: 566
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
- Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject
Rookie Advice
My two cents - to be taken with a pound of salt since I am a total rookie and I bought my first boat a month ago. Andreas et all, please don't hesitate to correct me.
What I learned (by mistakes) is to check the condition of the outer keel/stem if that boat has one (that's the thick strip of wood that runs along the center of the hull and up to the bow). My Sea Lancer leaks pretty significantly from around the outer keel and stem and I will need to repair. Per Andreas advice, look for any signs of rot, cause if it is present, it will leak there and may mean the keelson (the center keel under the floors) could be damaged as well.
Also look how it is sitting on the trailer, especially of it has been on said trailer for a long time. If the bucks (the planks that the hull sits on) do not extend past the transom, check carefully that the bottom of the boat has not sagged inward where the bucks end, a condition I think is called hooking. If the hull is hooked bad enough, especially at the transom, it will handle very poorly no matter the condition of the rest of the bottom. Also check around the rest of the bottom for hooking.
Feel free to write for more rookie advice at gammasjunk.com
What I learned (by mistakes) is to check the condition of the outer keel/stem if that boat has one (that's the thick strip of wood that runs along the center of the hull and up to the bow). My Sea Lancer leaks pretty significantly from around the outer keel and stem and I will need to repair. Per Andreas advice, look for any signs of rot, cause if it is present, it will leak there and may mean the keelson (the center keel under the floors) could be damaged as well.
Also look how it is sitting on the trailer, especially of it has been on said trailer for a long time. If the bucks (the planks that the hull sits on) do not extend past the transom, check carefully that the bottom of the boat has not sagged inward where the bucks end, a condition I think is called hooking. If the hull is hooked bad enough, especially at the transom, it will handle very poorly no matter the condition of the rest of the bottom. Also check around the rest of the bottom for hooking.
Feel free to write for more rookie advice at gammasjunk.com
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
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- Posts: 566
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
- Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject
Rookie Adive correction
That's gammasjunk@comcast.net
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
Thanks for the info so far.
Some additional information. I did not notice any indentification info on the transom because the entire transom has been enclosed by heavy diamond plate - inside and out - to reinforce it for the motor (115 Evinrude). It is solid as a rock, but certainly does not look real nice. I bet the diamond plate covered the ID information. I will look closer if I decide to see it again.
The Nameplate on the side says Peshtigo, Wisconsin.
He has it listed at 20'9"
He hes recently replaced the decking and roof with new mahogany plywood. I wood not call it restored - I wood call it "fixed". It doesn't look too bad - just some issues with the calking being sloppy and not a great varnish job.
I realize the bilge pump is a great idea and I was somewhat joking about that addition because it is the only new part on the entire boat. I'm just hoping it wasn't put on out of pure neccesity.
Good idea to check out how it sits on the trailer - especially since it has rollers, not bunks.
I might take another look and take some pictures to post.
Keep the suggestions coming.
Some additional information. I did not notice any indentification info on the transom because the entire transom has been enclosed by heavy diamond plate - inside and out - to reinforce it for the motor (115 Evinrude). It is solid as a rock, but certainly does not look real nice. I bet the diamond plate covered the ID information. I will look closer if I decide to see it again.
The Nameplate on the side says Peshtigo, Wisconsin.
He has it listed at 20'9"
He hes recently replaced the decking and roof with new mahogany plywood. I wood not call it restored - I wood call it "fixed". It doesn't look too bad - just some issues with the calking being sloppy and not a great varnish job.
I realize the bilge pump is a great idea and I was somewhat joking about that addition because it is the only new part on the entire boat. I'm just hoping it wasn't put on out of pure neccesity.
Good idea to check out how it sits on the trailer - especially since it has rollers, not bunks.
I might take another look and take some pictures to post.
Keep the suggestions coming.
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- Posts: 566
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
- Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject
Do you mean to say that the entire transom has been covered in a piece of sheet metal? If so, run away from that boat as fast as you can. Or be prepared to take all that metal off and have the distinct possibility of replacing the entire transom. That metal plate stinks of a major problem.
There should also be a small rectangular matal tag with the boat builder name and location and a serial number. Note that on boats built by Thompson Bros. Boat Mfg. Co. of Peshtigo, WI the serial number is different than the hull ID. The hull ID is stamped into the wood of the transom.
If she is a 1966 model from Thompson of Peshtigo and is 20'-1" centerline length and she is a cabin cruiser, than it most likely is the Off-Shore Cabin Cruiser model.
Andreas
There should also be a small rectangular matal tag with the boat builder name and location and a serial number. Note that on boats built by Thompson Bros. Boat Mfg. Co. of Peshtigo, WI the serial number is different than the hull ID. The hull ID is stamped into the wood of the transom.
If she is a 1966 model from Thompson of Peshtigo and is 20'-1" centerline length and she is a cabin cruiser, than it most likely is the Off-Shore Cabin Cruiser model.
Andreas
Check out http://groups.yahoo.com/group/classicoutboards/ There are lots of photos of hulls similar to yours.
Andreas is right about plated transom, that is a sure sign that something is being hidden. You may luck out but I would be prepared to rebuild transom at some future date.
Having restored on of these hulls from the keel up, I can tell you that for every place you find in bad condition be prepared to repair two places beneath each of them.
But hey that never stopped me!
Andreas is right about plated transom, that is a sure sign that something is being hidden. You may luck out but I would be prepared to rebuild transom at some future date.
Having restored on of these hulls from the keel up, I can tell you that for every place you find in bad condition be prepared to repair two places beneath each of them.
But hey that never stopped me!