couple of questions:
What is the BEST way to drain the water from the engine for winterization?
Is it best to fill engine with anti-freeze? From what point is the easiest to fill? My dad called and said the bolts on the thermostat will not budge..I hope this is not the port of fill!!!!
Does anyone have a manual on this model of 4cyl Volvo engine/outdrive I can copy?
Thanks
Jason
1962 Offshore Volvo help
Moderators: a j r, TDockside, Miles, Moderators
Every block is different. Some have a pipe-plug in the drain on the side of the block. Some have a T-Valve installed. Volvo used engines from several builders, they vary!
You should use anti-freeze. The greatest benefit for the block is to prevent corrosion in the block and exhaust manifold cooling jackets. It is much better to have a blanket over the cast-iron than to have moist air encouraging corrosion during storage. When you drain the block it will be wet, with air in there. Not a good environment. The antifreeze mix should be an obvious advantage, both to protect from a freeze (if it gets that cold) and because of the anti-corrosion protection included in engine antifreeze.
DO use NON-TOXIC engine antifreeze at 50/50 to 70/30 antifreeze/water. You will eventually spill it on the ground, so it is very important to use the non-toxic propylene based chemical. SIERRA is one brand that has this, ask for help, check the labels, usually both old fashioned polyethylene-glycol and newer type non-toxics are on the shelf, so check carefully.
There are also other consideration for off-season lay-up, from the exhaust elbow (critical maintenance) to lubrication and inspection points in the outdrive.
Therefore, as a DIY mechanic.....
You SHOULD have a full manual. You might need two, sometimes the Engine manual is separate from the Drive manual. My preference is the factory manual (first choice) but these are often $60 on up. I also am partial to manuals published by SELOC, they are of similar writing style and organization to factory manuals, and are about $20 retail. I did a quick GOOGLE search for SELOC Manual, and found dozens of sources.
Just my outlook, but I don't see how copying a manual page by page (typically 200 pages or more) could be cheaper or better than just buying one.
You should use anti-freeze. The greatest benefit for the block is to prevent corrosion in the block and exhaust manifold cooling jackets. It is much better to have a blanket over the cast-iron than to have moist air encouraging corrosion during storage. When you drain the block it will be wet, with air in there. Not a good environment. The antifreeze mix should be an obvious advantage, both to protect from a freeze (if it gets that cold) and because of the anti-corrosion protection included in engine antifreeze.
DO use NON-TOXIC engine antifreeze at 50/50 to 70/30 antifreeze/water. You will eventually spill it on the ground, so it is very important to use the non-toxic propylene based chemical. SIERRA is one brand that has this, ask for help, check the labels, usually both old fashioned polyethylene-glycol and newer type non-toxics are on the shelf, so check carefully.
There are also other consideration for off-season lay-up, from the exhaust elbow (critical maintenance) to lubrication and inspection points in the outdrive.
Therefore, as a DIY mechanic.....
You SHOULD have a full manual. You might need two, sometimes the Engine manual is separate from the Drive manual. My preference is the factory manual (first choice) but these are often $60 on up. I also am partial to manuals published by SELOC, they are of similar writing style and organization to factory manuals, and are about $20 retail. I did a quick GOOGLE search for SELOC Manual, and found dozens of sources.
Just my outlook, but I don't see how copying a manual page by page (typically 200 pages or more) could be cheaper or better than just buying one.