Rod SVarnishing
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Rodney Syverson
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 4:52 pm
- Location: Ada, Minnesota
Varnishing
Having just gone through the process of applying 12 coats of varnish to the hull and 12 coats to miscellaneous pieces like dash, windshield frames and a few miscellaneous parts in one group I would like to share a tip for preserving the varnish that remains in the can between coats. I am using Interlux # 96 and yes I know Thompson did not apply 12 coats of varnish to their boats, but It really makes a chunk of Mahogany look good. Problem was no matter how tight I sealed the can, it would skin over by the next days or two days later application. I went to an autobody paint supplier jobber and picked up 4 new empty fresh quart cans with lids. Then with a new gallon of varnish I filled each can up clear to the the top with just a small space for any remaining air. These cans will not skin over providing you have a good seal. I started my applications with the same can and when I would only use a small amount like a 1/4 or 3rd of a can I would place a 1/2 of cap of 333 Interlux solvent on top of the liquid and carefully replace the lid and set on the shelf without agitating the mix. This extra solvent provided I suspect enough vapors to disallow the air in the top of the can to react with the varnish and skin over. I quit losing varnish and prevented contamination with hardened varnish from that point on. Of course you would gradually be reducing your remaining stock and would have to take that in to account when you mixed up each batch. But as I have been spraying my varnish it is necessary to reduce and overreduction has not been a problem. By the way spraying really is the ticket when it comes to varnishing unless you have mastered the application by brush. I don't know how the guys get the glassy finish with a brush but I have not been able to. Rod S
Rod SRodney, I am amazed at what i have been able to produce varnishing with a foam roller and tipping brush. I feel like I have varnished acres of mahogany on this Seacamper restoration, this is the first project of this scale I have ever done.
I sand any piece to 220 surface then stain and allow to dry, then lightly sand surface to get rid of fuzz from stain. Then I roll with foam roller and tipp off with throw away bristle brush. I apply three coats before sanding as build-up layer so that I will not sand through varnish and stain.
My surface is not perfect but very nice and mulitple layers will help smooth out small imperfections. Its also amazing how the sun and a few washes will polish out surface.
I am a big believer in an authentic look that sometimes requires a few flaws that create a surface patina. I don't want my boats to look like I have built them from scratch but to retain the character of a 50 year old craft.
My varnish may not be spray gloss but it is very liquid and realistic with a spectacular patina.
I sand any piece to 220 surface then stain and allow to dry, then lightly sand surface to get rid of fuzz from stain. Then I roll with foam roller and tipp off with throw away bristle brush. I apply three coats before sanding as build-up layer so that I will not sand through varnish and stain.
My surface is not perfect but very nice and mulitple layers will help smooth out small imperfections. Its also amazing how the sun and a few washes will polish out surface.
I am a big believer in an authentic look that sometimes requires a few flaws that create a surface patina. I don't want my boats to look like I have built them from scratch but to retain the character of a 50 year old craft.
My varnish may not be spray gloss but it is very liquid and realistic with a spectacular patina.
Dan Stober
1965 20' Cruisers Inc. 570 Seacamper
1962 20' Cruisers Inc. 502
1963 16' Cruisers Inc. 202 Seafarer
Weatherford, Texas
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Rodney Syverson
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 4:52 pm
- Location: Ada, Minnesota
Varnishing
Txcaptdan: Know how you feel about varnishing acres of Mahogany. I can't believe I started varnishing back in September and am just wrapping it up now, but will still have the seats and cabinets to do when I get those completed. Hats off to you with your method of application. I tried brushing my first 3 coats and it was disastrous. I never did try the roll and tip method you described but it sounds like it works for you. Danenberg suggest that method and I know they can really apply some nice finishes. I have sprayed finishes all my life as an autobody shop owner, so spraying really works well for me. It is a lot quicker but you can easily get runs and sags. Also works better if you have a heated paint spray booth. Despite that, nothing is always perfect when it comes to finishing, and just as well as you will set yourself up for some major disappointments. Rod Syverson
One thing that worked pretty well for me, was to take a piece of plastic wrap, like Saran, and tuck it into the can of varnish, so that it rests gently on the surface. upon reopenning, to main surface has no skinning, although the edges of the can above varnish level will be dried.
From the second openning forward, I passed the varnish through a paint strainer before use.... I keep a slug of plastic cups, like butter tubs, around, and bought a box of plastic picnic spoons, and straws, for extracting small quantities from the can w/o pouring. I did try a chunk of ladies hose but found that paint strainers that come in four packs for $.59 worked very well.
John Hart
From the second openning forward, I passed the varnish through a paint strainer before use.... I keep a slug of plastic cups, like butter tubs, around, and bought a box of plastic picnic spoons, and straws, for extracting small quantities from the can w/o pouring. I did try a chunk of ladies hose but found that paint strainers that come in four packs for $.59 worked very well.
John Hart