Copper Paint for Hull

[JRPfeff]

I'd like to know what products people have used to repaint the copper bottom of their hulls.

This is the first time for me, does this require any special preparation? I ask because the copper paint applied by the previous owner doesn't look like it has bonded correctly to the wood.

Jim

[txcaptdan]

Jim, I have been using Pettit Copper Bronze 1933. I have had good results with it. I did have some poor adheasion over an area that was epoxyed on keel cap but other than that very good results. It keeps its color and trailers well.

[JRPfeff]

Thanks Dan,

Is that an anti-fouling paint? I ask because I found this in the Dockside Views Archives (Vol. I):

Just finished a 62 Sea Lancer with a friend (2-1/2 yrs). These are the instructions from a wooden boat restoration service, Jehorts Wood Boat Works, WI Strip wood with Bix spray. Apply 3 coats of Pettit Marin Paint #2012 Super Dry Sealer. Apply 3 coats of Primer, lighty sand between. Apply 2-3 coats of Z-spar bottom paint. Do not use anti fouling paint.

The previous owner of my boat used antifouling paint (repainted around 1980) and it appears to my untrained eye like this paint trapped moisture next to the wood and led to deterioration of the adhesion of the paint to the wood (or it could just be crappy job of repainting).

Jim

[txcaptdan]

Yes it is an anti fouling, here in the south that is almost reqired unless you do not leave in water. Corretecly applied I have had very good luck with this type paint. Understand that it does slough off eventually, thats what it does. But I have had several hulls with this and have only had to touch up now and then - normal.

[john]

I had copper bronze color matched to hard non antifouling marine enamel.

Looks like antifouling, but is smother and therefore faster than std antifouling paint. 2 1/2 years and 100 hours+ and still doing well.

[Darrell Van Eck]

I used Pettit 1959 hard racing bronze on my 62 coaster, it seemed to match properly, and it is a little smoother, slicker than normal bottom paint.

[TreelineIII]

I have Pettit copper 1933 on my hull. After painting, I have heard more concerns about using this paint, specifically on a boat which will not be sitting in water for exteded periods. I have had to replace some of the bottom and will need to again paint the bottom. I think I would like to go with a harder smoother paint (and cheaper then antifouling copper). Mostly because I have heard that the antifouling paint is not going to hold up both in the water as well as on the trailer. My question, can I just do a little sanding and paint over this paint with something like what Darrel used, Pettit 1959. I would rather not sand to bare wood. So do I go with the copper as I have it, or go to a differnet paint?
Thanks

[Monhegan]

Jim, I have been using Pettit Copper Bronze 1933. I have had good results with it. I did have some poor adheasion over an area that was epoxyed on keel cap but other than that very good results. It keeps its color and trailers well.

Two part epoxy repair materials include a large amount of wax. This wax blooms to the surface. The purpose is to seal the material from air while it hardens--- epoxy exposed to air never hardens, instead retains a sort of gooey surface that you can't sand or finish well.

So the problem is, you must prep this material sufficiently for painting--- the wax will not provide the best surface for painting, no matter if the manufacturer calls their product paintable. The underwater location is a very harsh environment for paint adhesion.

Sanding alone will not prep this kind of epoxy, because sanding just exposes more wax! A solvent prep is needed that will disolve the wax and allow it to be wiped away. These products are part of the catalog of the major paint makers like PETTIT, Woolsey, Interlux and so forth.

If you mix your own filler with materials such as WEST system, there are instructions how to mix and apply a filler without wax--- but you must use another method to seal the epoxy while it hardens. One method is to use an aerosol spray wax after the epoxy is applied. Because there is no wax mixed into the resin, you CAN sand and prep this surface. Another method is to cover the epoxy with a layer of "saran wrap"--- which will just peel off after hardening.

These are just a few considerations in choosing a product if using two-part epoxy repair, and planning for the easiest time with a rehab project.


Likewise if there is not sufficient prep, and especially if wood is still wet when painting, there may be adhesion issues on the wood. We all know but it bears repeating to beware of "wet spots" that actually indicate presence of fungus and "dry-rot", a totally repairable situation if caught in time, but just putting some bottom paint over it won't make it get better. :)


Pettit has complete application recomendations for their paints and chemicals as downloadable PDF documents. Check at www. pettitprod.com

cheers

jp