Redecking my Off Shore

[Torchie]

Starting to redeck my Off Shore. This was supposed to have been finished last fall.......

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Laid the oversized piece on the deck and traced along the underneath for the actual size. Recut the sheet leaving around a quarter of an inch overhang.

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[Torchie]

Can't quite get the hang of posting pics. They load out of order. But here goes anyway.

Since I don't have a band saw and my hand held jig saw skills are shaky I made a shield to protect the rub rail of the hull.

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[Torchie]

I recut the deck sheet to with in a quarter of an inch of the traced line and screwed the shield to the rub rail.
This allowed me to dress down the decking with a belt sander and not cut into the rub rail.

[Torchie]

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Looks good to me.
I will reinstall the decking using a thin coating of Boatlife on the framing.
Then I will contour the top edge of the decking. Sand. Stain ,seal and keep on going....
Torchie.

[LancerBoy]

Nice work!

Pretty much the same process I have used on plywood deck replacement on a number of Thompson boats.

Andreas

[Torchie]

Thanks Andreas.
Missed the rally again this year. Stayed home to celebrate my wife's birthday and the occasion of having all
the chicks home in the nest. One of these times I will get there. Hopefully those that went will post more pics.
Torchie.

[andre lafrance]

thanks for the pictures showing the process for redecking. someday I hope to do the same. i'm just wondering if by "contouring" you meant using a router, sanding block, or some other method on the edges. thanks again...

[Torchie]

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Original deck edge.

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Yes Andre by "contouring I mean the top edge of the deck.
I use a folded piece of sandpaper in my hand. Not too high tech but it works for me.
You don't really have to take to much off. Plus since I am redecking the whole boat the contour doesn't have to be an exact
duplicate of the original/
I personally don't like using a router for a job like this as I always seem to tear up the thin plywood.
But that is just me. Others may use one and have great success with it.

The pics show the edge of the original decking(Kind of hard to see) to give you an idea of what you are shooting for.

The other pics shows the freshly stained deck and windshield as of a half hour ago.
Torchie.

[thegammas]

Nice work T,
Can I ask the brand and 'color' of the stain you used?

[Torchie]

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Peter.
I used Z-Spar Standard Mahogany Filler-stain #1095
Now owned and produced bt Pettit.
This is the stain that appears to be accepted as the closest to the original
Thompson color here on the forum.
I like it. Make sure you get the standard as they make a brown and a red Mahogany as well.
Here is a pic of a different spot with one coat of sealer on it. Please excuse the dust....
Torchie.

[thegammas]

Thanks Torchie....

[andre lafrance]

thanks. just what I needed to know...

[PeterZ]

thanks for the photos. I too have to redeck my offshore (1965) someday. Are there any fastners that hold the deck down, or just the boat life caulk? if so, what did you use, nails, screws, .. and how do you cover up the heads?

Also, when you applied the stain, did you seal first, or just apply the filler stain directly to the bare wood? And if you sealed after, was it with CPES or something else?

thanks!!

Regards
Peter

[Torchie]

thanks for the photos. I too have to redeck my offshore (1965) someday. Are there any fastners that hold the deck down, or just the boat life caulk? if so, what did you use, nails, screws, .. and how do you cover up the heads?

Also, when you applied the stain, did you seal first, or just apply the filler stain directly to the bare wood? And if you sealed after, was it with CPES or something else?

thanks!!

Regards
Peter

Peter.
Nails were used originaly to hold down the decking as well as the covering boards. (And actualy not as many as you would think). I used a trim nail. Set the nail and then filled the holes with Famowood.
The rail around the bow edge is held down with screws that are then bunged.
I applied the filler stain to the raw wood. Used burlap to wipe it cross grain after it flashed.
The sealer that I am refering to is Petit Old Salem clear sealer. Much like a thinned down varnish. It is fairly thin to penetrate the into the grain.When i first started to work on wooden boats back in the 70's we used to thin the first couple of coats of varnish to achieve the same thing. I believe that most companys still advise that.

If you use CPES you CAN NOT use it before you stain as it seals the grain and you will experience adhesion failure.Hope this helps.
Torchie.