first, thank you for the help on my forefoot question. would have responded sooner, but i now am sharing a computer. also, i found out in frame, stem, and keel repair (p.72) that the part i was referring to is called an apron. sorry. i didn't mean to cause any confusion. to my questions:
1) when i brought my '57 15' sea coaster home last july, i immediately braced it at frames 2,4,8,13,17,21,and25 - there was no decking, but some of the decking frames were intact. i also removed the garboards and keel - not much of a job since most of it was rotten. however, the planks were okay. even the ones next to the garboards had survived. so, now the entire hull is stripped, sanded, bleached, and has been sanded again. once i repair the forefoot (apron), how do i put the boat back together? all the frames are new with the exception of the ones i used to brace the boat. they are not installed of course since there are no garboards or keel - inner or outer.
2) the shearstrake on the port side survived, but on the starboard side it was broken in half. would i be better off replacing both, or should i only replace the broken one - my concern here is the two matching. the survivor is in good shape.
3) i want to cpes the entire hull and outer part of the new frames. a friend of mine says it is not necessary to do the hull. it may be expensive - my friend's major concern, but i'd rather not take any chances. is it worth it?
thank you for any advice you can give to this novice. the boat is a basketcase, i know, but i think it is definitely worth saving.
assembly
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andre lafrance
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 3:17 pm
- Location: battle creek, michiganretired
You will need at least the keelson in place (inner keel as you called it) to attach the new ribs to. Hope you have the old one for a pattern.
Replacing both the shear strakes will go along way towards them matching.
The use of CPES is strictly up to you. Yes it is expensive but it will help to protect the wood. Is it neccesary, probably not.
If you use CPES make sure that any thing you want stained is stained first as once you coat it with CPES the stain will not penetrate into the wood.
Also if you CPES the hull apply your primer coat the the CPES before it is fully cured for maximum adhesion. If you wait till CPES is fully cured your will have to scuff the hull for good adhesion of the primer.
You can call Smith's and talk to their people for advise on use of the product.
Hope this helps,
Karl.
Replacing both the shear strakes will go along way towards them matching.
The use of CPES is strictly up to you. Yes it is expensive but it will help to protect the wood. Is it neccesary, probably not.
If you use CPES make sure that any thing you want stained is stained first as once you coat it with CPES the stain will not penetrate into the wood.
Also if you CPES the hull apply your primer coat the the CPES before it is fully cured for maximum adhesion. If you wait till CPES is fully cured your will have to scuff the hull for good adhesion of the primer.
You can call Smith's and talk to their people for advise on use of the product.
Hope this helps,
Karl.
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andre lafrance
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 3:17 pm
- Location: battle creek, michiganretired
assemblythanks
thanks karl. on a previous post, andreas said that the peshtigo boat inner hulls were not stained. so, after all the sanding and bleaching, the planks turned out pretty decent. i was almost certain that both shearstrakes would need replacing and that's okay. for sure i will cpes the the entire inner hull (probably the outer as well when i get to that stage). guess it's time to flip the boat and repair the forefoot. once that is done it's on to the inner keel (sorry i don't know the appropriate term) and assembly. i do have enough of most parts to replicate them. thanks so much again.