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Just in case anyone is looking, there are two boats on seattle Craigslist right now. The smaller one has just appeared, but the bigger one has been on for a couple of weeks. It looks to be in pretty good shape. The thing is, it looks like the guy really wants to get rid of it. He kept dropping his p...

Okay, fair enough.......just seems like an unnecessary step, thats all.

I coudn't help but jump in here..... your plan doesn't make sense to me.
You're only talking about 7/8 of an inch. It would be SO much easier just to steam the whole piece and bend it into shape. It'll still be plenty strong, but without the mess and worry of glue. Why complicate things?

I should add, however, that to get a good finish with ANY paint, you'll need to prep it properly. Holes filled and faired and the whole thing sanded smooth. Any imperfections will telegraph through and look worse with paint on them. Depending on the surface, I'll sometimes skip the primer and go str...

I've also been happy with Brightside. The color is deep and rich, and it goes on easily.... Pick a spot out of the sun, roll it on, tip it out and walk away. Come back in a couple of hours and if you did it right, it'll be gorgeous! Any brush marks will flow out to a nice smooth finish. Some people ...

One thing I noticed right away was that your steam supply hose looks a little small. A bigger hose (1 1/2 - 2") will get more steam into the box to get it up to temp. (212 deg). Another thing that may help you is not to seal the box up too tightly. Steam should flow, as you said. Try leaving on...

Jim, I think you'll be fine bending kiln dried oak for your frames. You just need to be mindful of a couple of things: 1) Choose/cut your stock to minimize grain runout. 2) Get your steamer up to temp. before loading. ( 212 deg) 3) One hour per inch of thickness I've bent lots of KD wood this way wi...

You can do it either way, but you'll save money and material if you order up the 5/4 ( it's 1 1/8" thick ) and edge rip it to 5/8". Or better yet, if you have access to a planer rip it to 3/4" and mill it down to 5/8. To key to a successful bend is to minimize grain run-out. Select wo...

Looks great. Tell us what you did.

Well..... you have all the information you need right here. But, as I said it can be a bit confusing,

So.. What is it specifically that is giving you a hard time? See if we can clear things up for you.

Oh yeah, bandsaws are great. But it's true, you can get by without it. And honestly, I wouldn't recomend buying one just to make this cut. If you don't have a lot of experience on one, a rolling bevel is probably not a good place to start. What I would do is hack off the bulk of the waste with a jig...

Well.......I thought I just told you. No worries, it can be a little confusing so I'll try to break it down. Mill your lumber so it's slightly oversize, this will give you some room to fine tune the fit. Now do your layout. You'll need your bevel square for this. If you can use the old rubrail or th...

Sounds like you're describing the rubrail. 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" or so? Yeah, that's steam bent. Cutting the bevel is not that hard. ( If you want to show off to your friends, it's called a rolling bevel. ) Lay it out as you've desribed, if you have a bandsaw and a helper you can cut it that way...

Yeah...... Andreas is right. That's rot. Your fix idea might work. But really the best thing to do would be to replace the keelson. You've already removed the garboards so you're halfway there. Take out the old one and use it as a template for the new one. It's not as hard as you might think. If you...

Thanks for the quick reply. But I'm still a little confused. It sounds like I want to fasten the trim through the floorboards and into the risers. Is that right?

By the way, that Lancer looks great. Is that a wood deck I see? I like it.


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