thompsondockside.com

Welcome! Not too much activity on this site lately however there exists a ton of great advice over the years. I have not been on the site often either mostly because I can not find much more to do with my boat! I also have a T&T '62 Breakers. I know Andreas has one too. It's a great boat.. serio...

Robert- Basically, if Andreas says the site is "on its death bed" then that is most likely the case. It's been a robust site in the past with a wealth of great information on Thompson boats. I've been using it since 2009 and had great responses to some perplexing questions. In my opinion t...

Interesting and creative solutions to a nasty and tricky problem. If I were approaching this problem, I would reject the notion of moisture and pressure to reverse what has likely taken 30-50 years to create. The wood fibers have assumed a new and quite permanent direction creating the "hog&quo...

T&T looking good and great history.. keep on cruising Breakers! Rare boat!

Yes, top of my red stripe is just below the splash rail at transom. I think the bow is more critical to be certain it's not too low near the actual waterline. If anything, I'd error on making the bow a wee bit higher than at the stern. Yeah, sanding.... and then there's that!

Jason- I have a couple of suggestions being I finished my waterline and bottom paint last year. I used Pettit's hard copper bronze with a 1 1/2" red stripe. More accurately, I did it the first time two years ago. I realized in trying to actually hit the waterline the boat did not look right sit...

Thanks Phil, makes sense to me too. My thought on all tight now was that the screw shanks would not be subject to a broken seal which could result tightening later. Probably over-thinking this issue. I do remember to the long cure time on Boat Life Caulk now that you mentioned it. I'll likely wait t...

Thanks, Phil.
Today, did the job as stated and all went well. One messy job.
One question I have.
The cure time on both these adhesives is about a week. I have the screws pretty snug but I could crank them tighter.

Should I do that now or wait until the caulk and adhesive is cure?

I replied to the post on "Glue" but thought it best to start a new post since I was really asking a question and not giving a reply. I was reading the post on "glue" as I am starting my rebuild of part of the outer stem on my '62 T&T Breakers. This is a 3 piece (3/8" thi...

Hey. A nasty job no matter what you use, but.. I use a variety of scrappers all sharpened, often, and really sharp! I even custom grind edges allowing me to get into those nasty tight corners. I use Red Devil 1"-1 1/2" wide. Yes, with these really sharp scrappers you can cut and gouge wood...

Jason. Can you or anyone explain why you must find quarter sawn for the outer keel? I would think most any white oak in correct thickness would be more than suitable (treated with CPES). Finding white oak in length and thickness is difficult enough let alone quarter sawn.

Hey Tom- Thought I recognized that Cruisers. I defy anyone to show me better upholstery job than what was done on my T&T by Eugene Standaert of Cumberland, WI. He's not basically a boat upholstery guy. He was a professional classic car upholstery guy but has taken on a few boats. As my contact s...

Thanks Phill-
The manufacturer says it will not work thru wood. Just wondered if anyone had tried to skirt the material issue with an ingenious solution. I am not real interested in cutting a 2"hole in the bottom for a transducer.

Looking at a Hawkeye glue-down mounted transducer depth finder D10D. Anyone have one of these installed? Mfg says works on solid fiberglass or aluminum. Work on a wood hull?

Dan, go to "About Dockside Views" in the Board Index and find the one on posting photos. Follow directions. Takes a while the first time but you get the hang of it. Worked for me!

Portside